Heres my old '51 in JDBB.

Attached Thumbnails

     

For those interested in using the JD buff primer sealer..... FYI ......this requires reduction (JD thinner) Instruction on can reads

10 parts buff Primer
1 to 2 parts reducer

Oh while I'm on the subject I needed the Hardner REN3001 but my local John Deere reseller Finches....doesn't carry it and will not order it unless I purchase a case which is 6 cans I only need 1 at most 2 pints of the stuff....Finches attitude is if they order 6 and I buy 2 they can't sell the remain 4 pints Part number is REN3001 "Valspar renew 3001" This stuff cost $35-$37 a pint.

I had to buy 2 gallons of JJBB because of the same deal with the dealer. I may paint my house with it too!

O.K. Guys,

I have watched this thread for awhile. I haven't posted about this, but it looks like a lot of you are having problems getting Blitz Black. I manage a John Deere Dealership in Colorado, so, if you can't find it you can call us.

We haven't had a lot of people here ask for it, but if we can get enough people asking for it, will buy and stock it. Yes, we have to buy it in case lots.

This is not a solicitation, and if inappropriate, please disregard or omit, but if this is a help to anybody you can call us. Our phone number is *

Craig

Is there a place to order it online? I have not checked, but the dealers up here may not want to stock it, as they won't sell enough...

Of course, shipping it to Canada may be prohibitive too.

__________________
Home Handyman Forum I Shade Tree Mechanic Forum

Same with the place here. They buy cases and I think the lady said it comes in as 10. I have to pay shipping I think but I dont have to buy them just one. She said they will probably sit for years. I may buy two gallons for the heck of it. I still wanna see how long that one guys Impala lasts with the gloss black too.

LOL...I just didn't mention it but I too had to buy 2 Gals of Blitz Black and four Gal of the buff Primer for that very reason (not to paint my house) but because 4 gal come per case for the buff primer so I went ahead and just another ordered another 2gal of Blitz totaling 4 gal each

I didn't mind that so much because I still saved money buying in bulk...blitz was only $21 per gal and primer was $22 (basically list I believe) Opposed to buying 1 gal of PPG epoxy primer \ base and clear and hardner\reducer for all three totaling $600 and felt I would use it up or sell to friends.

Hardner being optional but really should be used and is highly recommended for quick cure and added durability figured I really should use it and do it right. I'm going to call valspar to see if there is a substitute product that does the same thing that maybe package differently.

Does anybody know how much extra sheen\gloss the hardner really ads? I have seen blitz used plenty, but never asked if the harder was used but all looked the same so either everybody used it or nobody used it...I'm guessing nobody

I have a lowered / hotrodded 94 Dodge Ram Diesel thats getting blitzed.

Basically although re-banded for John Deer, Blitz Black come from Valspar BPS Agricultural Restoration Series Tractor & Implement product line. In regards to hardener. Aside from Renew REN3001 John Deere's part number as well. I was able to find out Valspar sells two other enamel hardener products one is 3389 16FL. OZ. (Pint) and also sells a 1/2 pint labeled hitch restoration Hardener from there truck and trailer line (part Number not known) ingredients are identical. 1/2 can cost $9.98 and is enough for 2 quarts and the 16oz (pint) is good for an entire Gallon of enamel. 16 oz cost 19.95 from Tractor Supply and you can buy per can as needed opposed to a case. Both the 8oz and the 16oz can be purchased from tractor supply co. Find a dealer http://www.valspar.com/val/resident/bps_imp.jsp type in ZIP

Agricultural Restoration Series Tractor & Implement Hardener ingredients.

53880-05-0.....Cycloaliphatic
-----------------Polyisocyanate
123-86-4........N-Butyl Acetate
64742-95-6.....Aromatic Naphtha
95-63-6..........1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene

1 pint per Gallon of Paint or otherwise 8:1:1

8 Parts Enamel Paint Valspar PBS or most re-branded John Deere paint
1 Part Reducer \ Thinner
1 Part Hardener

with harder wait 30 Minute Activation Period prior to spray ......Pot life after mix with Hardnener is 8 Hrs. I'm cross referencing this with Valspar autofinishing product line Acrylic Enamel Hardener to see if this too has same ingredients. That product is also 16 oz and same price per can.

Dry to touch wo\Hardener 2-4 Hrs. and 15-30 minutes with Hardener
Dry to Handle wo\Hardener 24-36 Hrs. and 2-4 Hrs. with Hardener.

As with all enamels Hardener is highly recommended (rocker panel, wheel wells and hood area especially and with potential gloss enhancment may as well do the entire vehicle so blending is not a problem. The extra $19 to an already inexpensive solution is worth it IMO

My 2 cents to help out fellow DIY rodder folk.....cheers

I am using the JDBB and Buff Primer on my 66 Chevy Pickup. I am not seeking a "show" finish, this truck will always be used to haul mulch, dirt and other hubris. My question is, what is the "sealer" function of the primer? I have learned that the sealer primer doesn't seal against moisture so what does it saeal against?

Apparently this is a really dumb question??

I’ll take a stab… where did you learn that? Buff primer-sealer is a rust-inhibitor that excellent adhesion and durability and states such on the can.

To be considered a rust-inhibitor it must lock out moister and air from penetrating the coating to some degree. Sealer by definition is non porous material to prevent passage of a liquid or gas. Now under a microscope this varies from product to product and type of products such as urethanes or enamels \ hardener or non hardener. Measurement of bleeding \ osmosis \ diffusion that classifies something a being a sealer or not is above me so some sealers may be better than others i.e latex \ silicone against whatever solvent (water or saltwater) under whatever environmental conditions such as varying weather and temperatures but all are still considered sealers or sorts. So if I were applying a sealer, I too like yourself would expect sealing from at least water and air. If I'm wrong somebody please educate me as well.

Thanks for the reply. I sanded down both the hood and the roof of my 66 Chevy Pickuo down to bare metal. I wiped them down with mineral spirits and painted them with John Deere Buff Primer. I don't have a garage so I was working on the street in front of my house here in hot humid Georgia. After about three days I started to see spots of rust under the primer. I have to add that folks here at hotrodders and Chevy Talk told me that primer would not protect against rust and that I needed to have it protected. I finally found a buddy who let me park it in his garage so I did it over. THhis is why I am asking what I was sealing against, it didn't seem to be moisture?

Thanks

Hmmmm not good, sorry to hear that. Primer\sealer should work if coated well enough and painted shortly after. On bare carbon always use epoxy primer whenever you can. same goes for fillers, never apply fillers to bare metal apply overtop the epoxy primer / primer sealer. A good inexpensive product to consider is U-TECH - E360 Series Epoxy Primer/Sealer. How many coats of the buff primer did you apply, I would think 3 coats redunced 10:1 sprayed with 50% overlap of the buff primer sealer would have done the trick. I used the buff primer to cover a existing two tone paint scheme of green\beige prior to shooting all one color. Prior to applying primer I used 320 grit paper to scuff prep surface. I included U-tech link below just in case you are interested. Regular primer or sandable primer does not protect bare metal but a primer sealer should unless I'm missing somthing.

http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.n...d=65395&pid=435

Maybe it's the fact that I only did one coat of primer and I did that with rattle cans (at $7 a pop!) As I said, I don't have a garage so I am trying to do all the prep I can and then I am taking it to an ol' timer to shoot.

As I sand and sand and sand it seems like I could go on forever. I know that when I am painting around my house that many imperfections in the surface are covered by the primer and top coat. Does a truck finish behave the same? There are places on my exterior that have all these little pock marks, like I said I'm sanding them but I feel like I'll never get it perfect.