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#302
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Jdbb
I used John Deere paint thinner TY25652 to thin my JDBB. That's what the John Deere dealer sold me to use.
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#304
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Greetings everything has been covered in this thread several times regarding mixing and applying. For those interested take the 15 minutes a read through the entire thread its very informative and will answer most if not all questions.
10 parts buff Primer 1 to 2 parts reducer JD buff primer does not require hardener but should be reduced at least 10:1 for best flow \ coverage on a general purpose gun. I use a 1.5 tip and at a temp of 70-75 produces great results. For those that would rather not thin I would use gun tip bigger that 1.5. As a general purpose gun us usually 1.4 / 1.5 and can spray is fine but in some cases with primers a bigger tip is better IMO Last edited by multismith : 12-17-2005 at 10:15 AM. |
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#305
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Well the paint I ordered finally came in. It took TWO MONTHS for my local John Deere shop to get it in. It ended up costing me AU$120 for the 2 one gallon tins.
Quote:
Yep. It comes in a box with two tins. I couldn't buy just one. The guys at my local JD shop hadn't heard of it either until I went in there and made them look it up. So next step is to get some time off work and sand down my old Hillman and get it painted. |
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#306
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Good On Ya Mate
I'm glad the paint finally got there. You are a bit north of Sydney I guess? I visited there in 1969, I guess you weren' t there yet.
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#307
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Jdbb
after reading this thread several months ago i thought JDBB would be the way to go....did talk to several people who have used this paint as i live about 10 miles from where john deere has plants......some used the JD primer, most did not........they said to just use a quality primer and be sure it is applied properly.....that is what i did using a self etching primer.........it is as tough as nails!!! i needed to fix a run and found that out!!! otherwise i am very pleased with the results..............and i have not painted for many years before this one....that has been my experience.........
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#308
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I'm about 170 odd miles West of Sydney actually. |
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#309
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Blitz Black Flames
Just wanted to say this was a very helpful thread in choosing to do flat black flames on black metallic flake motorcycle. I am a custom motorcycle painter and I had a customer request for flat black flames on his bike. So after much research, I got the Blitz Black I did a sample set for him to review.
Anyway, masked the flames, scuffed the clear and painted with one tack coat and one good wet coat. The blitz black I used I also used JD's thinner and hardener. As mentioned 8-1-1. Easy to use and easy clean up. I am happy with the results. My only concern is scuffing and marring that may occur during the life of the bike. The paint IS tough as nails, so chipping is not a concern. But a scuff marks and/or scratch, how do you repair a superficial mark without altering the area's color shade unevenly. Should I sell this paint set with a touch up vile of the paint? Billy |
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#311
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John Deere Paints
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John Deere Paints are an enamel paint I believe, so if I wanted comparable paints to use with more glossy-ness I would use One Shot paints. I painted a guys truck lettering with it over 10 years ago, and I still see it rid'in around and looks like the day I did it, actally its held up better then his factory paint on his truck which shows aging. Billy |
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#312
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Guys, I have gone ahead with rattlecan blitz black on the trunk and rear quarters of my car. The paint has a pretty rought texture and also seems to turn chalky when brushed or lightly rubbed by my fingers. I can also see some sanding scratches through the paint.
The car was primed for a while before so I grinded out rust and primed with jd buff primer over those repairs. I sanded with 180 and 220, then lightly hit it with 400, then washed and allowed to sun dry. Do I need another coat? Or do I just need more careful prep? This is really just an experiment and I'll happily use "proper" blitz black instead of the cans if necessary. As you can probably tell from the pic, the paint itself looks great, it just doesn't hold up when I touch it. I'm open to ideas and I will try to answer any questions about what I may have done wrong. Thanks, Andrew ![]() ![]() Last edited by andrewro : 03-08-2006 at 08:06 AM. |
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#313
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Andrew,
I got the Gallon paint with harndner, and this was my concern. I think the hardner will help with the scuffing marks, and I put a good coat of wax over it as well, which kind of gave it a little more luster. I personally don't think I will use this paint again on my custom jobs. It wasn't a failure, just requires more care then I care to pass on to my customers. I think I'll just go with the eggshell clear or dulling agent for my clear coats to get this effect. If you want a gallon with clear and reducer, I paid $80.00 for it, I'll sell it to ya for $40.00 plus $5 to ship. I think I might have used only a total of a Pint, if that. Billy Black |
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#314
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Billy, I appreciate the offer. I am going to finish the car with the rattlecans this weekend and see what happens over the next few weeks. When the time comes to shoot it again, if I can't get a gallon (or smaller) in my area I'll send you an email. Thanks!
-Andrew |
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#315
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Hello everyone I'm new to posting on here but I have been reading for a while. After reading this post I decided to go with the JDBB for my 1977 F100 I am going to pick it up today. I have read this entire thread looking for an answer and I think this is about the only thing that has not been mentioned. My truck is nearly completely covered with cheap rattle can primer and little spots of rattle can paint. I was wondering if it would be okay to just spray the BB over the rattle can primer. I don't want it to have a reaction and start messing up right away. I'm not looking for a great paint job, just a decent one. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated I can't believe this thread started in 2004!
Jay 77 F100 |
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