Interesting, I guess I may stop in at SW to get the slower drying reducer for the JD BB paint so perhaps I will ask them about the primer and see what they say about the matter. Iam hoping to get my 54 Ford Customline at least primered by this weekend. We will see
Geo

GEO: If you could, let me know what they say please. I'm curious if mineral spirits will work as a reducer myself. Let me know how it turns out.

sure thing MO. I will get all the info I can. I will be picking up the primer and paint on Tues. So sometime prob this wekend Ill take a trip up to SW and talk with them see what they have to say. I will let ya know. I will also be putting together a photo album of the project as progress goes along so we will see :-)

Awesome! THANKS GEO

I read that post too about just using mineral spirits to reduce it. So that is what I did on my first coat. But on my second coat I went with JD thinner and to me the thinner worked a WHOLE LOT better than the mineral spirits. Maybe it was just the fact that with the mineral spirits was my first attempt at painting but I have to say I liked the way it looked after the second coat with JD thinner added. Just my opinion but I would buy the thinner it was only $4.50 for the quart and the mineral spirits was $3.00 so for the difference in costs I would go for the thinner, even a gallon of thinner is only $15.00.

Jay

Hey Jay,

You happen to have a part # for that thinner? and what is the mix ratio?

Yea the part number for the quart of thinner is TY25652. On the can of paint I got the instructions said to mix with the thinner a ratio of 10:1. But everyone on here said 8:1 so after trying it both ways the 8:1 worked much better for me and my cheap gun and little compressor.

Jay

Part numbers, mix ratios, and much more are covered in the article: John Deere Blitz Black paint, which was composed from the information in this thread, and approved by Valspar paint, the manufacturer of JDBB.

For those reading this thread, please take the time to read the John Deere article prior to repeating the same set of questions that have already been covered.

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Sorry for repeating the mixxing ratio information, but I took the question about the part number as being the part number for the quart of reducer not the gallon of reducer part number that is listed in the article.
I'll tell you that one page is alot easier to read that all 26 pages of this thread! Great work on that!

Jay

Ok well heres another question I have. 80% of the car was sanded down to the original paint. The other part is bare metal. I was going to shoot the whole car with the JD primer. Is that ok? I figured the primer will show the really bad imperfections and I could fix them before the paint. Another thing, using the JD Primer will that hold up fairly well? I have read people using epoxy or sealing primers. Do I need I need to use a sealing primer? or will the JD Primer be ok and then using the Blitx Black paint?

I painted my 51F1 two years ago with Blitz Black and it has held up just fine.

Ok, well heres the deal. I thought I had all my paint from JD nailed down, only to find out that they called me and told me that I had to pay for some of the stuff as it came in. So in other words, I would have had to buy 6 quarts of the reducer 6 gal of the primer ect. I would have ended up dishing out 4-5 hundred bucks for all the stuff. In addition, seeing as there seemed to be stripping problems with the JD paint, I figure I don't want to take that chance. SOooo I decided to stop in at SW and look at thier paint. I saw that the Genesis primer and thier Fleetline black paint, looked pretty good and close to what I want to achieve. So first question has anyone dealt or used SW and how did it work out?

Now onto the next question. Compressor issues. I decided that the suction type gun I have I would designate as a primer gun. I want to go with a HVLP gun for the finishing jobs, however, I am not sure if my compressor will handle the needs for this gun. My compressor is a Craftsman twin cylinder 6.5 HP 60 Gal. the specs are as follows:
15.0 scfm@40psi
11.5 scfm@90psi

The car to be painted is a 1954 Ford Customline. So will my compressor be able to keep up with a HVLP gun?

Ok guys thanks in advance for any input or suggestions.

I've used John Deere black on chassis and suspension parts with very good results. Also, since I'm a Pittsburgh Steelers fan (living in New Jersey no less1) I like the industrial yellow, sometimes called Transport Yellow for all engines that have been built. Very durable paints.
These colors can also be found, usually cheaper and in greater supply, at a store chain in Pennsylvania and New Jersey (other states, maybe, but, I'm not sure) called Tractor Supply-check their web-site.
Hope this info helps. I'm a new member, but, I greatly enjoy the information given by the many sources. This is what Hot Rodding is all about. Thanks.
Hiram Ed.

Have a car in the JD blitz black. My question is how or what do I use to clean it of fingerprints & dirt? Nothing I have used seems to work well. Anyone have a clue or have something that works well to give it a clean look?

thanks Kevin

I just use normal turtle wax car wash and a old sock or rag and all the dirt/grease/whatever comes off and it looks like it did just after I sprayed it. JDBB is great stuff.