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Can anyone tell us about John Deere's Blitz Black paint?
like:
- A specific primer needed?
- Or no primer needed?
- 1 coat or 2+?
- A reducer needed?
- How good of a paint is it?
- Please any and all personal and professional input will be appreciated. I and we have a couple of choppers and rods to do in a flat paint.
what if you used no hardeners... or less.... would that stop the striping problem?
whats the disadvantage of not using a hardener..
this stuff is supposed to be pretty tuff paint anyhow right?
i did a whole panel with the spray balm.... no "striping" problems... and it looks good.... I'm thinking of doing the whole car with the spray can.... and then just giving it a quick wet sanding when i'm done.
So can i use regular enamel reducer to reduce it so i dont have striping problems?? Also my car is primer black right now (RM Diamont Black epoxy primer) so i dont have to primer it w/ JD primer do i??
The reducer will help but not eliminate the striping on large areas, might just be a skill thing? I haven't mastered it yet.
You don't need the JD primer. any 2k urethane will do. I've shot over dp50lf ppg epoxy, ppg ncp271 primer, Valspar DTM2000 primer and directly over Valspar acrylic enamel paint.
No, striping as in darker and lighter stripes from passes with a spray gun. It dries so quickly that it doesn't have time on a large area for the reducer to flash off evenly.
This is what I've been working on so far...
I finished the driverside door and have a little more to do yet.
I've seen the ?'s about the rattle cans, but nothing real clear on if it would be advisable to do the whole car in. I really know nothing about painting a car. If I were to rattle the whole thing, can I get it smooth to the touch without ruining the look of the paint? I see the post about the GRAY scotch pad. Is that like color sanding for this paint since it can't be polished? And would it be the same thing if the car was rattled instead of spray gunned? Thanks for all the great info on this thread!
also here is a pic of my 67 GMC that I shot with Endura Matte black
It's a nice finish but a little more costly than JD paint. But the blitz black is one sweet color, and for that price, how can you go wrong
Could anyone order me some John Deere blitz black?? I went to the John deere shop and they dont stock it so if i buy it i have to buy it in cases and thats too much. I tried deere.com but it just goes through my local dealer. so if anyone can get it i'll pay-pal ya!!
Getzy3
How much do you need? They can order it in the case, but you DO NOT have to buy the whole thing. It is a stock item. And where do you live? Dont forget to get some rattle cans so you can do your doors jams. I just got finished shooting BB. Its tempermental, just read my earlier posts for all the directions and do's & dont's.
Cool?
getzy3 said:
Could anyone order me some John Deere blitz black?? I went to the John deere shop and they dont stock it so if i buy it i have to buy it in cases and thats too much. I tried deere.com but it just goes through my local dealer. so if anyone can get it i'll pay-pal ya!!
So would it be a good idea to use this product when the weather is a bit cooler and more humid than recommended for standard paint, to slow the drying process and prevent striping?
How did you go about sanding out imperfections , like when the paint runs?
keep the gun even and steady. smooth back and forth.
dont sweep, which takes the gun further away from the surface. this paint was made to dry fast. practice on a old car hood. 1 tack coat then a full wet. wait 3 hrs then your 2nd, 3rd, etc. coat.
runs happen when being impatient and wanting to get it done and then you become careless with your strokes. ive done it too many times in the past. be patient.
keep the gun even and steady. smooth back and forth.
dont sweep, which takes the gun further away from the surface. this paint was made to dry fast. practice on a old car hood. 1 tack coat then a full wet. wait 3 hrs then your 2nd, 3rd, etc. coat.
runs happen when being impatient and wanting to get it done and then you become careless with your strokes. ive done it too many times in the past. be patient.
Most of this has already been covered.
If you get runs when you paint, I would say that you need more practice and striping would be the least of one's worries. If you put it on too thick, even before the point of running, the paint will shrivel up when the reducer evaporates and leave the paint wrinkled. You can't lay it on as thick as other paints because of this. Worst case, yes you can wetsand easily with 400 or 600 grit and reshoot.
It's $22 a gallon...practice on something first as mentioned previously.
Most of this has already been covered.
If you get runs when you paint, I would say that you need more practice and striping would be the least of one's worries. If you put it on too thick, even before the point of running, the paint will shrivel up when the reducer evaporates and leave the paint wrinkled. You can't lay it on as thick as other paints because of this. Worst case, yes you can wetsand easily with 400 or 600 grit and reshoot.
It's $22 a gallon...practice on something first as mentioned previously.
I think what your tring to say is, the paint covers pretty good, so I wouldn't be trying to lay it on thick, being a beginner. I would like to think experience would assure no runs but given my past experience with body shops thats not always the case. Who knows? I will use it first on something less important, that does make sense. Thanks
Now about the striping, apparantly it is of concern, no one has been real clear on how to prevent it, one post mentioned it was nearly impossible it dried so fast, even with reducer, was that a unique experience? (I believe it was your post) Another person claimed to use a spray can on a panel with no striping, what lead to your problems with the paint? Would my suggestion of using the product in a cooler more humid climate, than recommended to slow the drying process sound reasonable?
I still struggle with the striping. For me, it's a something I may have to live with. I've never had this problem with chassis semi gloss black or flat black paint before. I'm just not ready to blame it on the JDBB. It may be my imagination but it seems that painting objects that are vertical have less striping that painting hroizontal ones...roofs verse quarters.
I still struggle with the striping. For me, it's a something I may have to live with. I've never had this problem with chassis semi gloss black or flat black paint before. I'm just not ready to blame it on the JDBB. It may be my imagination but it seems that painting objects that are vertical have less striping that painting hroizontal ones...roofs verse quarters.
Could the reason be that when shooting horizontal surfaces, you dont hold the gun straight on, its at a angle, so the spray lines blend easier. Maybe try holding the gun at more of a angle when spraying the sides.
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