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John Deere Blitz Black??

626K views 425 replies 105 participants last post by  Centerline 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
ATTENTION: This entire discussion has been summarized in a single 1-page article about John Deere Blitz Black Paint. The article is in "wiki" form, which means that you can edit it if you like (just click one of the "edit" links in the article). To view the article, see this link: John Deere Blitz Black paint.

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Can anyone tell us about John Deere's Blitz Black paint?
like:
- A specific primer needed?
- Or no primer needed?
- 1 coat or 2+?
- A reducer needed?
- How good of a paint is it?
- Please any and all personal and professional input will be appreciated. I and we have a couple of choppers and rods to do in a flat paint.

Thx- Jade & the Las Vegas Pirates "the O.G.'s"
 
#102 ·
Your stripping problem is caused by operator skill. This is the SAME concept as in metallic colors. You have a heavy area that area appears darker. Same goes with suede paint, the thicker areas will be shiner causing the surface to be stripped.

Holding the gun 90 degrees to the surface and keeping a nice 50%overlap is the key. Doors, quarters stuff like that is easier to maintain proper gun control. Holding it over a hood or roof is hard to control the gun thus causing your stripping problems...Eric
 
#103 ·
striping

It is user error. like the other guy said, 90 degree angle to the car. Steady back and forth, not too fast and not too slow. You need your tack coat to get a surface that the BB will accept. A tack coat meaning you can still see the old paint after your first tack run, ie: a super light coat. Wait 10-15 then your full wet.
Runs are from going too slow and being too close. And even being impatient and wanting to shoot the next coat under the 3 hour window that this paint needs. Runs are fixed AFTER the paint has fully dried. A light grit sand paper will fix it. Get a couple of rattle cans to fix goofs.
Practice on an old car before you try on your ride.

Cool?
 
#105 ·
xblast JDBB

Wetsanding is to get all the imperfections and orangepeel out of your paint so you gan buff it to a mirror shine.
JDBB is a tractor paint, flat black, no shine at all. Thats the purpose for using this stuff. JDBB is a shoot and go paint, no bling bling.

Cool?

POST YOUR JDBB PICS.....:cool:

POST ALL YOUR JDBB PICS IN THIS NEW THREAD.

"BLITZ BLACK PHOTOS"

EVERYBODY!!

POST ALL YOUR JDBB PICS IN THIS NEW THREAD.

"BLITZ BLACK PHOTOS"
 
#106 ·
bb/vs epoxy primer

this is so cool that i found this thread, as i have been thinking of repaining my old jimmy in flat black, and possibly my 64chevelle, mainly because i think it looks mean, and i was told that i should do it in epoxy primer.

i thought the primer was a good idea because it is suposed to be very durable and i live in canada, everything rusts. plus, i thought if i painted the chevelle in the flat black primer, if i dont like it i could just give it a little wet sand and shoot it whatever colour i decide on.

how durable is this BB stuff?
how is it to paint over?
i know its a tractor paint, so i guess its pretty hard, but does anyone know how it might hold up in a salty, wet and flying stone abundant environment the chevelle will be stiped to metal, but i think i will leave most of the trucks paint, except for the bedsides, which need replacing or extensive patching.

so, ultamately, BB or epoxy primer?
 
#112 · (Edited)
jc55 said:
I still struggle with the striping. For me, it's a something I may have to live with. I've never had this problem with chassis semi gloss black or flat black paint before. I'm just not ready to blame it on the JDBB. It may be my imagination but it seems that painting objects that are vertical have less striping that painting hroizontal ones...roofs verse quarters.




I was getting the stripes on my hood when I was spraying the Endura suede black on my truck. I solved the problem by removing the hood and shooting it separately. It went on a lot easier whit the hood sitting lower. It also isn't so hard to hold your gun at 90 degrees to the hood when it sits lower than your waist.
 
#113 ·
now, how about this, i found a urathane chassis black that is suposed to be better. its a 2 part paint 1 part catalyst mixture and is suposed to be better and stronger then a "seasonal" paint such as JDBB, and it aint that much more $$

in the long term, would somthing like this be better and hold up longer? forget about the sweet price of JDBB for a moment


it came from a aerospace paint suply company
 
#115 ·
paint

Hi I have been reading this with much interest as I have a couple old rides that I have been considering using flat black on --1953 ford f-100 and a 1930 studie---I don't know a lot about paint work even though I have sprayed a little paint in the pasted ,motorcycles and other small projects that came out ok. The one thing I thought I might bring up was cleaning the metal prior to sanding ,old wax and oils will sometimes get ground into the painted surface that you are going to use as a base for your new paint job .using a wax/oil remover prior to sanding can eliminate this problem.....
 
#116 ·
Seasonal JDBB??

Seasonal JDBB??

OK? Ya wanna explain this seasonal thing?
So... In the summer its ok to drive your car but in the winter your screwed because the paint is seasonal?
Really, who said this? Why would they think its seasonal?

JDBB held up in the "the weather room" where the worst type of hell was unleashed upon it. From acid rain to salts. Paints from A to Z were compared to BB, and BB came out on top. It wasn’t formulated for bling bling it was made for hard core industrial applications.

So for the price, formula, durability, ease of spray, JDBB is the best bet. We will NOT be able to out use it. We will be dirt nappin long before BB will fail.

Cool?
 
#118 · (Edited)
Re: Seasonal JDBB??

motoedge [/i]JDBB held up in the "the weather room" where the worst type of hell was unleashed upon it. From acid rain to salts. Paints from A to Z were compared to BB said:
JDBB vs epox primer

JDbb will hold up to anything you throw at it. From salt to acid rain. It is harder than epox primer and more weather resistant.
JDBB is the way to go. At $22 a gallon you cant go wrong.

Cool?
You are totally wrong.
Epoxy after a 7 day cure with withstand things this paint could not think of- How about acetone, lacquer thinner, urethane reducer, dot3 brake fluid. This items will lift your enamel like paint stripper. Your statement its harder? Give me a break full cure on enamel is six months with a hardener with out years. FL #2 black box test- your green paint will lose 50% gloss in 6 months (industry standard test)
The only thing this will beat out epoxy is epoxy is not made for
a finale coat and has poor UV protection But its far Superior in EVERY other way.
Like I said earlier this paint is great to use as a flat black but none of the other colors have any place in automotive refinishing.
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Originally posted by motoedge JDBB held up in the "the weather room" where the worst type of hell was unleashed upon it. From acid rain to salts. Paints from A to Z were compared to BB, and BB came out on top. It wasn’t formulated for bling bling it was made for hard core industrial applications.
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What BS is this a weather room? I have been a in this business
for 30 years and know of no Paint Manufacturer that has a weather room. I want to see it!!! I might want to buy one! Where?
Also How did they dupicate acid rain?? Tell me more!
Salt spray tests are done in a water box,(an over grown fish tank) not room.
Good God!
 
#119 ·
BarryK

BarryK.
Tractors and cars cant fly. So I think they left BB out the airplane test. Aircraft have quite a bit more R&D $$$ to make better stuff. Tractors are well, tractors. I started this thread to find a cheap yet tough flat black paint. So what ever else is out there that may be better, well cool. And it most likely is $100+ a gallon. Most of us ARE looking for cheap yet tough paint.

As for "the weather room" it IS just a glorified fish tank.

So for all the haters of JDBB out there, to each his own.
Some want hundreds of dollars of bling, and others just need twenty bucks of tough stuff.

Cool?
 
#120 · (Edited)
Well thats all great, only reason I stepped in was you were starting to sound like a snake-oil salesman.
We can all have an opinion "I think this is the best"
Thats OK but when you start touting all the tests and other BS like your the chemist and this is fact, you need to back it up.

By the way that paint could never pass a skydrol test- its not possible.

How did we go from a weather room to a fish tank? Thats a big step, OH! I said that! Got it now!
 
#121 ·
Barry, you raise a interesting point, inadvertantely. Your air craft paint, it has to be built strong to with stand all the abuse you get in the air, so if it is so tough, how easily will it strip down to be painted if someone decides they dont like it anymore.

But as far as the durability of BB, like I said, come take a look at our tractors, not a mark, nearly 30 years old of being a loader tractor on a cattle ranch in North Dakota. It has stood up to mud, gravel, sand, cow crap, snow, pressure washers, probably had just about every fluid imagineable spilled on it inadvertantly, still not a chip, flake, or signs of rust. I dont know what you would call that but I call it pretty dang durable. It may not be a skydrol test but its real world testing for me, and I will always trust that more than "lab" tests.

Also if people are spilling thinner, reducer, and brake fluid on their cars, they dont take very good care of their car in the first place, and probably wouldnt care.
 
#122 · (Edited)
AntiBling said:
Barry, you raise a interesting point, inadvertantely. Your air craft paint, it has to be built strong to with stand all the abuse you get in the air, so if it is so tough, how easily will it strip down to be painted if someone decides they dont like it anymore.
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Air has nothing to do with it or speed. Skydrol was used as a hy-fluid years ago and concern was it would drip on the paint and paint would flake
and get in engine and plane would go down, Skydrol is close to
Dot3-4 brake fluid. They no longer us skydrol for EPA reasons but the test is still used for saftey. Paint stripper will remove and sand blasting also.
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Also if people are spilling thinner, reducer, and brake fluid on their cars, they don't take very good care of their car in the first place, and probably wouldn't care.
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He said this stuff would hold up to anything, I didn't -but these items would not hurt the epoxy short term that was said to be no where near as good.
 
#123 ·
OK. I have been reading this thread on BB too and others elsewhere for quite some time, along with articles on adding flattener to Bling paints for achieving the same look.
The majority of the opinions seem to be positive on BB. But most of the praise is about the finish color and ease of touch up and not its ability to withstand a nuke blast.
Being that its cheaper than dirt most guys would probably just re-shoot the problem area with spray bomb and its good to go. It looks good and I doubt anybody is going to have their car for 30 years anyway. I think the stripping problem is pilot error and is not the norm.
My current project is a Rat Rod (has to be flat black with red wheels and wide whites) and i'm still undecided on BB or the flattner route but this discussion is helping me make up my mind.
Being in Calif I'm not too worried about rain, snow, salt, etc and UV ray fade just makes a rat rod look better. After all, real rods don't shine and primer is finer. Oh yeah, and don't forget to avoid the Boyd.



 
#124 · (Edited)
Originally posted by pronash I think the stripping problem is pilot error and is not the norm.

==============================================

I saw this before about the stripping and meant to say something
but was just plane laughing to hard to really care listening to the wannabe chemist promote this stuff.
The stripping issue is caused by the flattener wanting to separate
from the paint resin.

With this type of paint ( this is bottom of the barrel stuff)
almost any reducer can be used you can cut it with lacquer thinner, gasoline (but don't) acrylic enamel reducer, urethane reducer or Xylene and any color will spray good.

The exception is, is when flattening agent is added to this type paint resin.

Yes by adjusting spraying techniques you could over come the stripping issue but the way to "over come is use the JD reducer for thinning"
It makes no difference on any other type of paint system but this one, another option is go to Sherwin Williams and use there
"enamel reducer" NOT!- acrylic -just "enamel".

Please! Because I said the above don't think I have ever used this as I have not and can't think of anything I would want to destroy by using it.
 
#125 ·
Man, if my body panels fit as bad as the ones below, I think BB would have been the perfect choice...



let us Blitz black users do what we know how to do best...build cars. A little less time on the 8 layers of hand rubbed whatever and a little more time on panel alignment. Nuff said.

 
#126 ·
Your right, should have replaced that redone rocker or spray it flat black and not worry about it showing. 20 years from now maybe yours will be worth what I was paid for that car, car was ment to be a 1/4 mile car thats why not replaced and a weekend screw around. Oh I paid $300 for that car and probally sold it for more than you make in a year or two.
Anything else?
 
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