We assembled the pump using hardened rings and a stiffer slide spring, but stayed with the stock seven vane setup. Once we had it together we put it in with out the rubber but used the gasket and measured the input clearance. This involved a dial indicator and associated fixture. Ended up needing a thicker washer. This was ordered and installed to get the input clearance in spec.
Then we moved on to the valve Body. We are using the AA unit that came wiht the core. We pulled it apart and cleaned the pieces. We worked on the tv valve by swapping in some different, stiffer springs I picked up at my local hardware. I also swapped in a 700r4 retrun spring into the lie bias valve, and used the line bias spring in the vb accumulator bore. This stiffens each of these areas.
We were able to get the lower section play down to an acceptable level by using different thrust washers and a thicker selective washer. We soaked the low/rev clutches and installed them into the case. We put the low'rev piston in using the low/rev tool and then the bevel split ring to secure it. As stated in the manual the bevel faces the front of the trans. Then the sun shell, planetary and the bearing, selective and ring to secure it to the shaft. Use some trans jell to seure the thrust washer to the back of the sun shell.
This takes us to to another selective thrust piece. Manual states to start with the #10. I ended up tearing it back down twice first time with the #13 and then with the #15 to get the clearance down. Make sure the out put is tight up and the rest installed to get a good measurement. This includes getting the direct and forward drums in and seated correctly. And the center support in there. And pulling it back out if the clearance isn't right. I used the depth setup on a dial caliper to measure.
After you get that where you want it you can put the over drive piston and clutches in. I am using the stock four steel and two clutch arrangement, but there is a mod to cut the piston down .070-.080 to fit another clutch in between the middle steels to theoretically add 50% more capacity to the over drive setup.
then comes the pump. There is a selective washer on the back of the stator support that you can use trans jell to keep it in place when installing. This brings me to where I am. I need to measure the clearance on the input.
We have too much clearance on the lower unit. I will order some new thrust washers and see if we can take the slack up. I have read that these were built quite loose from the factory. This is over .040 so I'm sure it can be tightened up.
These are the "scarf" cut rings. We will be installing solid Teflon pieces. from my reading the solid seals better and with the big cut in the "scarf" cut I can see why. The kit came wth the cut pieces so I ordered a bag of the solid as I read that they are hard to install. I figured I'd hurt some but it wasn't near as difficult as described. The ones I put on the input shaft I soaked in some very hot water as I read that this helps them stretch. The set I put on the forward drum I just put them on with no prep. I didnt really see the benefit of the hot water. If you do it and have trouble maybe the hot water would help. Your call.
Bag of new solid rings.
dish of hot water I warmed up in microwave and brought to garage. Wife not too keen on me doing this ring install in her kitchen. I don't let her cook in my garage so I moved my activity back out there.
new rings on shaft.
sizing tool made from some more of the plastic liter drink bottle and some hose clamps. first work the rings into the grooves with your fingers. Then with the plastic get the rings situated and clamp them down with the hose clamps. I like that the plastic is clear as it allowed me to see we didn't pinch the rings and that they are situated into there respective grooves. Let them sit. I went back and checked on them and repostitioned the clamps to get the rings uniform. After this I was able to get the shaft into the stator support where the rings(two of them) with live.
This part is not for the faint of heart. To replace the bearing down in the planetary one must remove the planet gears and the associated pieces. The snap ring comes off then the real "fun" begins as there are little rollers like a universal joint that the planet gears ride on around the pinion shafts. when you pull the pinion shaft and slide the planet gear out keep track of the shims as therse clearance the gears to the housing and are important to put back where they came from. also those rollers come out so have a clean place to catch them.
I made a couple of scratch marks with a screwdriver on the housing next to the pinion hole to keep track of where the setups came from so I could put them back the same as they came apart.
you can see the rollers in the gear around the shaft. I didn't take pix as my hands were covered in transgel getting these back into the housing. Don't forget the new bearing as that is why we took it apart to begin with.
the old ones didnt look bad but I bought new so we will put those in.
over run clutches. We are using borg warner regular brown. These arent 'shifting' clutches so we don't need special frictions here.
Soaking the overrun clutches
two of the snap ring pliers I used.
The over run housing with sun gear on. I put new seals in it but I guess I didn't take any pix.
Takes some finagling to get this back together as a lot of gear teeth must mesh up.
Some of my stuff came today. I got the hard pump rings,.500 boost valve and larger rev boost valve along with the stiffer spring. I also got the stiffer spring(actually they sell them in bags of five) for the pump slide. Still going to get some more stuff but as I have already said, I am on a pretty strict budget so It is being ordered as I can afford it.
I have been hitting up trans shops in a quest for a servo/piston set up from an old th200. This particular servo has a very large piston area and would provide big clamping force for the band Piston has cast number 8628112 and the cover has 8628134. If anyone has one or knows where to get them I would be appreciative.
I stopped at a trans shop yesterday and the nova was across the street at a body shop. I love the Keystones and the Firestone Wide Ovals. Will be very cool when reassembled.
Did some more teardown/inspection type stuff today. I think the drum is in good shape. It is equipped with a 12 spring release setup. The GN brf is reputed to have 16 but I am thinking this will work with the twelve for this build. The seals all seem to be in good shape but will be replaced with new from the kit I bought. There is a pic of the governor. It has a red speedometer gear. Not sure what that equates to but I will research further and see what I will do about a replacement if deemed necessary. The weights shall be shaved down to look like and weigh like the brf governor. I also am going to get the brf spring for the governor.
I ordered some pump things. I am getting the .500 boost valve, larger rev valve and spring to raise line pressure. Hardened rings for the pump and a high tension spring for the slide. I will be retaining the seven vane stock piece on this build and will see how it works.
More pix when the stuff comes and pump assembly begins.