I gave up on the 18 gauge and bought a sheet of 20 gauge cold rolled steel at my favorite supply store, Triple S Steel. This stuff is a little easier to work. I started with two 12 inch by 12 inch pieces, making divots with my wood mallet and stump. I smoothed out the divots and stitched the two pieces together with tacks. Might work for the bottom of the passenger side front fender. Now, to duplicate it for the driver's side.
Today, I broke out the bead bag and the wood mallet and attacked a piece of 18 gauge. I am looking to round off the front fenders. At first, I thought I had another piece for the scrap pile. After a little time with the English wheel and my cedar stump, maybe not.
I've decided to postpone work on the rear quarter windows. I need to use a tool like a bead roller to set the glass into the panel. My son has a bead roller, but he's out of town. Besides, it'd be more convenient to swap ends with the S10 and have the rear closer to my work bench.
So, I'll concentrate on finishing the front fenders. I'd like them to be more teardrop shaped. I outlined a potential shape with some thin green tape. One concern is that the fender would be almost six feet long, like on a 48 Chevy. Making the rear fender proportional will require extending the fender past the trunk, as on this green car I've seen at the Lone Star Roundup and the Houston Autorama.
While getting ready to place the passenger side quarter window, I thought I should install the door glass. Doing this will allow me insure that the windows align and that they're set at the same angle. I am amazed that I found windows that match in curvature with glass from two different manufacturers across two different decades.
The S10 roof might work for the quarter window. I cut the roof in half and matched it against the roof B pillar. It's a good match for the pillar curvature but it needs help merging into the trunk deck and the rear window sheet metal. The back edge of the roof might make the turn.