After shooting the second coat of epoxy primer and letting it dry for three hours I applied two wet coats and one highly thinned coat, to level out the surface "dust", of sandable fill primer. This will be my base for doing my block sanding and straightening work. I used Nason Ful Fil acrylic (one part) primer #421-09.
After many hours of straightening the body filler, particularly around the rear quarter curve and the the cowl curves, I am finally ready to lay down the base coat of epoxy primer. I am using Nason Ful-Poxy #483-19 . When I first started shooting yesterday my gun gave me a few problems and I got some pretty nasty runs on one of the doors, the trunk lid and on the firewall. I let the epoxy dry over night and then sanded down the runs this morning a shot a second coat.
I prepped the bare metal areas with 80 grit and the skimmed/filled areas with 180 grit. I then blew everything off and wiped down with acetone until I could see no more residue on a white towel. I shot at approx. 66 degrees and just left the garage door wide open for my ventilation. Note that I shot epoxy on both the exterior side of the sheet metal and the interior side. These photos were taken after shooting the second coat of epoxy.
No entries for a couple days but work is continuing. We have had a streak of very nice weather so I have been able to roll the car outside and jump ahead a few steps to get some of the body filler work out of the way while it is nice and dry outside. I like doing all the sanding and prep work outside so I don't have to breath the dust all the time and it keeps the shop a LOT cleaner. I'll alternate back and forth a bit now with indoor mechanical work on rainy days and outdoor body/paint work on dry days
I haven't been posting any pics of this "filler" phase because it is just not that interesting to look at. Straightening the body is basically just skimming on a coat of filler, sanding it down to find the low spots, skimming another coat of filler, sanding it down to the low spots, etc., until everything is straight and smooth.
Photo #1 shows the basics tools I am working with. A gallon of lightweight filler, naturally, various straight edge applicators, an in-line air sander, a rotary air sander, a dual action air sander, a little 2" angle sander, a palm sander, a hard hand-held block and a soft hand-held block.
Photos #2 and #3 show the filler work in progress. You will note that almost all of the straightening is being done around the rear quarter curves and the front cowl curves where the body is made up of multiple small pieces of sheet metal welded together. There is also some less intense straightening required around the cockpit opening and where the rolled pan joins the balance of the body. In addition, there are a number of areas, like the firewall hoop and door openings, where the ground down welds need a bit of filler.
Photo #1 below: As I said, the exhaust is about as simple as they come. Other than the initial curve off the manifold stub everything runs straight under the body and exits the rear UNDER, not over, the rear axle. This will result in some ground scraping but I've always been partial to the look, going all the way back to the '57 Ford I built back in high school. Also in this photo you will note the muffler clamps and the universal rear hanger used at the tail of the Thrush glass pack to keep things in place. With the passenger side complete, I repeated these same steps to fabricate the drivers side exhaust.
Photo #2 Here is a top side view of the completed exhaust system.
Photo #3 Is a rear, ground level shot of the completed system.
The exhaust system is going to be about as simple as they come. I have naturally ditched the crossover "Y" pipe and will fabricate a pipe off of each exhaust manifold for duals. I salvaged the flange ends of the stock pipes and about a six inch stub on each side. After sand blasting off the old rust I will use these stub sections to mate up to the stock manifolds and then weld on new 2 1/4" exhaust pipe from there. To make the first "turn" I purchased one "U" bend and cut it in half. I'll use one half of the bend on each side.
Photo #1 shows how I mated up the stock flange and stub end with the first bend of new pipe (this is the passenger side). I bolted the stock stub end to the manifold and then hand held the first bend to get the approximate angle I needed. I then cut the end of the first bend piece on the chop saw and rechecked the angle by once again holding it up against the stub end. Once I had it very close to the correct angle, I took both pieces off and used the angle grinder to get both butt ends of tubing perfectly flat so they would mate up flush. I then bolted the stub end to the manifold once again and, as shown in this picture, held the new first bend in place with a clamp at the tail end and a couple 2x4's under the front of the pipe to keep it pressed firmly against the stub coming off the manifold.
Photo #2 I then tack welded the new bend to the old stub piece as shown in this shot taken from the front of the passenger side manifold. I then removed the tack welded unit and welded it up on the work bench where I could get at it.
Photo #3 is a shot of the stub and first bend welded together and ground down. After testing for the correct fit, I added a short straight run of new pipe to this unit to reach the position where I wanted the muffler to hang.