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View cboy's profile Entries: 220
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03-24-2005 06:27 PM Rat - Cowl Fabrication
Photo #1 below: I then cut the template along the windshield end line I have just traced. The phote shows the resulting curve as well as the two marks denoting the ends of the curve support piece. This curve SHOULD now fit snuggly up against the door jamb when the template is bent around the curve support.

Photo #2 below: I now put the template back in position, centering it on the front and back curves. You can see in this picture how the curve I just cut allows the paper to fit flat against the door post. I tape the template in place at the windshield and the firewall hoop. I then reach under the firewall end of the paper and trace a line exactly along the outside (front) edge of the firewall hoop.

Photo #3 below: This is a shot of the underside of the template after being removed from the car. You can see the curve we already cut at the top of the picture along with the two marks identifying the ends of the curve support. At the bottom of the picture you can see the line I just traced from the firewall hoop. I then took a straightedge and connected the end points of the two curves. We now have the basic outline of our template.


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  [Entry #140]

03-24-2005 06:22 PM Rat - Cowl Fabrication
With the pedals and master cylinder installed I can now move on to fabrication of the cowl components. The most difficult part of the cowl will be the corners. The corners basically form a transition between two different sized curves at the front and the back while also sloping downward and inward toward the front of the car following the basic "wedge" shaped outline of the original design (described in an early journal entry). The curve at the front of the cowl is formed by the firewall (see entry on construction of the firewall hoop). This curve has a 6" radius. I have decided to make the curve at the door post (the rear of the cowl) using a 3" radius. This is a somewhat arbitrary number (unless you are trying to duplicate a body exactly) and I chose 3" so my radius would fit entirely on the 3" wide door jamb post.

Photo #1: I begin by shaping a 1/2" wide piece of 1/8" flat stock to form a "corner curve support" with a 3" radius. I formed this piece using various sizes of pvc pipe and a hammer until it conformed to a circle I had drawn on my work table. In this photo I have tack welded the corner curve to the door post, tacking only on the underside of the curve. If you look closely in this photo you will notice that the top end of the curve piece is mounted just slightly below the 1x1 cross member that forms the bottom of the windshield. This is done because the tin for the cowl top will be fitted under the cross piece but over the corner curve support piece.

Photo #2: Next I begin a template. I am using heavy, 12"x 18" paper stock. I draw a line down the center of the paper and on both sides of the paper (top and bottom). I mark the center of the corner curve support which I just installed and I also mark the center of the 6" radius curve at the front of the firewall hoop.

Photo #3: I then line up the center line of the template with the center marks I just made on the front and back curves. I get the paper as snug up against the door post as possible and clamp it in place at the firewall hoop. I then reach under the windshield end of the paper and draw a line on the paper tracing the outside edge of the corner curve support piece I attached in photo #1. I also mark on that ine exactly where the corner curve piece begins and ends.









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  [Entry #139]

03-24-2005 06:14 PM Rat - Foot Pedals
Photo #1: This is the stock gas pedal arm from the donor F-150. I will use the top portion of the arm which will accept the stock F-150 throttle cable.

Photo #2: This is the cut off portion of the gas pedal arm which I will use.

Photo #3: Here I have welded the upper portion of the F-150 throttle arm to the Mazda gas (originally clutch) pedal and hooked up the throttle cable.




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  [Entry #138]

03-24-2005 06:07 PM Rat - Foot Pedals
Photo #1 shows the master cylinder now bolted to the firewall and pedal bracket.

Photo #2 is a shot from inside the cowl area showing the brake and gas pedals installed.

Photo #3 I really like how this stock F-150 throttle cable and grommet bolted up the the firewall. Nice clean looking installation. You can also see in this shot that I have cut the hole for the steering shaft and temporarily installed the shaft to insure everything clears.


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  [Entry #137]

03-23-2005 11:07 PM Rat - Foot Pedals
Although it may seem a bit out of order, I will install the pedals for the brakes and gas at this point. It could be done later but it will be much easier to access everything if I do it before the complete cowl is in place.

Photo #1 below shows the pedal bracket and mechanism I am going to use. It is a left over from a Mazda pickup project I did some time ago. On the left is the portion of the bracket I had to cut off so the unit would fit within the cowl area. This was originally a clutch/brake unit so I had to modify it somewhat for use as a brake/gas unit. The brake pedal had to stay where it was in order to line up with the holes in the bracket for the Mazda master cylinder, which I am also using for this project. The original clutch pedal and mechanism was basically flip flopped from the left side of the unit to the right side so it can now be the gas pedal.

Photo #2: The pedal bracket is here mounted against the firewall and bolted to a 1x1 square tube brace (shown on left) which is welded to the front door jamb. You can also see in this photo where I drilled pilot holes in the firewall for the MC unit. I will remove the pedal unit and then cut the complete hole with a saber saw.

Photo #3 shows the finished holes for mounting the MC (shot is from the engine side of the firewall).


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  [Entry #136]

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