With the driver's side door and quarter panel tacked in place, I completed the passenger side of the car in exactly the same manner. I then moved on to the rear deck section of the car and started with the fabrication of a rolled pan for the lower section of the deck.
Photo #1 shows a piece of 18 gauge steel cut to size and clamped in place to check for general fitment. Once in position, I was also able to mark on the under side of the panel exactly where the rear cross member of the body skeleton ended. This is the point I used later to begin making the curve of the pan.
Photo #2 This is my "Poor Man's Pan Roller". I started by clamping the longest piece of 3" PVC pipe I had laying around to the work table. I then used a square to measure off and mark a series of lines each an inch further from, but parallel too, the pvc pipe. (Note: if you try this method, I would advise you to invest in a full length of pvc pipe. It would make the job much easier as I had to keep moving the panel to do the bending.)
Photo #3 I then put the mark I had made for the rear cross member of the body at the apex of the curve of the PVC pipe (unfortunately you can not see the line in the photo which is on the underside of the sheet metal panel). To insure the curve would be straight I lined up the front edge of the panel with the closest parallel line I had drawn on the work table. I then clamped a piece of 2x2 square tubing directly at the edge of the panel to keep it from moving or slipping out of place. Then I took a piece of 1x1 tubing as shown in the picture and clamped it on top of the panel so that the panel could not pop up out of the grove with the 2x2 tubing except by pulling it directly toward the pvc pipe.
Photo 1 Below: Before skinning the door we must first install the crown support pieces and then we must add a "lip" to the front and the back edges of the door. As noted earlier in the journal, the use of the stock Ford door latches prevented us from making a "pocket" type door which would fit between the door jambs and be flush with the exterior of the body. Instead, we had to make the doors in the style of the earlier model A's with the front and rear door edges overlapping the body. Our door skeletons were made to fit inside the door jambs so we now must weld a "lip" on the front and back edges of the door to overlap the body and cover the gap between the door and the jamb. This photo shows the rear lip, cut from 1 1/2" wide, 3/16 flat stock and the front lip, cut from 1/2" wide, 1/8" flat stock.
Photo 2 Below: shows the lip pieces clamped to the left (rear) and right (front) edges of the door frame. You can also see in the picture the crown support pieces already welded in place.
Photo 3 Below: is a side view of the rear lip showing the amount of "bow" in the lip so that it will match up with the bow of the crown support pieces.
Photo on left below shows the quarter panel clamped in place over the crown supports and ready for tack welding. Note that there panel overhangs the bottom edge of the skeleton by about an inch. This overhang will be bent over the bottom edge later to form a nice smooth edge that can be tack welded from below so it does not show.
Photo on right belowabove, looking toward rear of car from rear door jamb, gives you an idea of how much crown there will be in the side panels.