To fabricate the trunk hinges I first made a paper "trunk hinge tester" similar to the "door hinge tester" shown in entries 61 & 62. The size and shape of the trunk hinge had to be different but the "tester" used basically the same idea to determine how the hinge should be made and to insure the lid would clear the body when opened.
The hinge has two basic parts, the trunk lid attachment (solid) and the body skeleton attachment (hinged).
Photo #1 shows the pieces for the trunk lid attachment. On the top are two identical plates. One will be welded to the trunk lid and the other will be welded to the rear down leg of the hinge. Then the two plates will be bolted together. On the bottom left is the horizontal leg of the trunk lid attachment and on the bottom right is the rear down leg.
Photo #2 shows the trunk lid attachment pieces welded together. The other plate shown in the photo will be welded to the trunk lid and then bolted to the hinge piece.
Photo #3 shows the remaining hinge parts. On the far left is the hinge pivot bracket. This is a piece of 1x1 tubing with a hole drilled through it to accommodate the hinge pivot bolt. This bracket will be welded to the body skeleton. Next on right is the pivot bolt, nut and washer. This nut will be welded to the side rib of the body skeleton. Next on right is the bushing and hinge tube. The tube is just black pipe cut to length and the bushing is a piece of PVC pipe. Next on top is the trunk lid attachment piece (as shown in photo #2). Next on bottom is the front down leg whick will be welded to the pivot tube. On the far right is the horizontal leg from the body portion of the hinge. This horizontal piece will be mated up to the horizontal leg of the trunk lid portion of the hinge when all the pieces are positioned on the car. The two horizontal legs will then be welded to each other. This allowed me some room for error while I was making up the hinge.
Photo #1 Is a view of the driver's side of the car showing the left rib of the trunk lid clamped to the left top rib of the rear deck. Note the 3/16" spacers held in place with duct tape to prevent them from falling out while adjustments are being made. The spaces are just pieces of scrap 3/16 stock I've collected during the build.
Photo #2 Is a view of the top cross member of the trunk lid clamped to the top cross member of the deck skeleton. Once the side and top pieces of the trunk lid are properly positioned, they are welded to each other.
Photo #3 shows the trunk lid frame completed. The center rid has also been welded in place using two equal length cross member pieces on each side which keeps the rib centered. The trunk frame is still being held to the deck with clamps pending fabrication and installation of hinges and stops.
The trunk lid frame is made from three curved ribs fabricated as shown in journal entries 64-67. These ribs were bent exactly the same length as the two top ribs of the deck in order to obtain matching curves. These three ribs must now be cut to the proper length.
Photo #1 shows the 3 trunk ribs clamped to the under side of the existing top and bottom cross members of the rear deck skeleton which also serve as the top and bottom dimension of the trunk opening. With the ribs clamped in place I can mark them for length (minus a 3/16" clearance space on each end). I then remove the ribs and cut them as marked.
Photo #2 shows the three rib pieces cut to length. I also measure and cut two cross members, one for the top and one for the bottom of the trunk lid.
Photo #3 I then clamped the top and bottom cross members for the trunk lid to the existing cross members of the deck skeleton. I also clamp the left and right ribs of the trunk lid to the left and right ribs of the existing deck skeleton. Note that I have inserted 3/16" spacers between all these trunk lid parts and the deck skeleton parts they are clamped to. This allows for proper and uniform clearance all the way around the trunk lid.
Photo #1 is another view of the diagonal bracing being welded in place.
Photos #2 & #3 are of the completed passenger side door and the car as it now sits. The moral of the story - take every precaution possible to get things square and clamp them solid before welding. The repair of this warped door took about an extra day's time to fix.
My last entry indicated I had finished the driver side door and now I'd just breeze through the passenger side door. I wasn't even intending to take pictures or do a journal entry because it was just repeating what I'd already done. Well, I think I was a little too cocky. Door #2 developed a major warp somewhere during the welding process. I took the same precautions as door #1 to keep it clamped solidly during the process, but somehow things didn't go quite right.
Anyhow, in the spirit of showing you the entire build - the good with the bad - here's my first major blunder.
I didn't think at the time to take a picture of the warp (I guess I was too peeved to even think of it) but the door was twisted about 1/4" too far out at the top rear corner when the other three corners were clamped into their proper positions. I made a few attempts at twisting the door frame in various ways and finally came up with this contraption.
Photo #1 is what I call the "Weld Buster Deluxe". I first placed a piece of 2x3 rectangular tubing on my work table - basically to prevent the table top from being pulled into a bow. I then placed a piece of 2x2 square tubing on top and at a right angle to the 2x3. Finally I placed two opposite corners of the door frame on the 2x2 and then placed clamps at the other two corners gripping the table directly under the 2x3 support tube. Then it was just a matter of applying pressure on both clamps until it either twisted the frame back into position or it broke a weld. I helped things along by grinding the welds way down on the corners and with enough pressure I was able to pop a weld at the top rear corner of the door.
Photo #2 Here's a view, from the top down, of the broken weld.
Photo #3 I then put the door frame back onto the body skeleton and firmly clamped it in its correct position at the front jamb and at the lower rear corner. I placed a section of 2x3 tubing across the inside tops of the door jambs for something to pull against and then put a clamp over the 2x3 and the top rear corner of the door and pulled it inward about 1/8" beyond perfect alignment (figuring there would be some amount of spring back). I then cut two pieces of 1x1 tubing to serve as diagonal bracing inside the door frame. I put one brace in the top right corner or the door and the other brace in the lower left corner as shown in the photo. I tack welded the diagonal braces and the broken weld and then released the pressure on the upper clamp to make sure the door came back to proper alignment. Then I reinstalled the clamp, pulled in tight again, and welded everything up solid.