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hotrodders.com: Project Journals: cboy's Journal
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View cboy's profile Entries: 220
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02-06-2005 06:01 PM Body mounting brackets
With the basic components of the skeleton completed I can now secure the body to the chassis with permanent mounts. I will be using two mounts on each side of the body, one placed just in front of the front door jamb and the other placed just to the rear of the rear door jamb. I think these will be the two most stressed areas of the body. I will be fabricating two addition mounts to help secure the trunk/rear deck at a later date.

Photo #1 shows the pieces for the mounts. On the right is the frame bracket. It is fabricated from 1/8 wall 2x2 square tubing and will be welded to the frame rail of the chassis. The bottom of the tube is cut at a 45 degree angle to provide access to the mounting bolt. On the left is the mounting tab which will be welded to the body skeleton. This piece is 2"x 4" and is cut from 3/16 steel plate.

Photo # 2 shows the bracket and tab mocked up for the driver's side front mount. On the left is the chassis frame rail and on the right is the bottom rail of the body skeleton. Immediately behind the tab is the front door jamb. Note also the 1x2 piece of tubing which is clamped to the underside of the chassis frame rail which is used to keep the bottom of the frame bracket flush with the bottom of the frame. This 1x2 will also provide a solid means to clamp the bracket tight when we are ready to weld.

Photo # 3 is another view of the bracket and tab being mocked up. With the tab firmly against the door jamb and the bracket firmly against the chassis rail the two piece are clamped together and removed from the car to drill the mounting bolt hole. Note that the tab, when firmly against the jamb, does not line up with the bracket. This is because of the sides of the body are narrower at the front than at the rear. This puts the door jambs at about a 93 degree angle to the frame rail while the mounting bracket itself is at a 90 degree angle to the frame rail.


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  [Entry #95]

02-05-2005 09:48 PM Rat - Firewall Hoop
With the welds all cleaned up I reinstalled the hoop on the skeleton, checked all the alignments, clamped it solidly in place and welded it to the skeleton.

Photos 1 & 2 show the completed windshield frame, cowl cross member and firewall hoop.

Photo #3 shows the entire body skeleton to this point.


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  [Entry #94]

02-05-2005 09:37 PM Rat - Firewall Hoop
Once all the slices around each of the curves had been welded up I removed the hoop from the skeleton to grind down all the welds.

Here are a couple shots of the hoop after the grinding work.


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  [Entry #93]

02-05-2005 09:29 PM Rat - Firewall Hoop
I made the firewall hoop out of 1x1 square tubing using the same technique I used to make the seat deck hoop shown in a prior entry. I incorporated a 6" radius curve on each corner and made the curves using the "slice and dice" method as shown in the entry regarding the seat deck hoop. I also put a 2" crown in the center of the firewall hoop to match the 2" crown I put in the cowl cross member (see prior entry). I did this using the pipe bender just as I did for the cowl cross member.

Once the the tubing was sliced and bent for the crown I clamped the piece to the existing skeleton, added bracing to hold it in place and adjusted it so it was square, true and lined up properly with the front door jambs.

Here are three views of the hoop clamped in place and ready to have all the slices around the curves welded up. I did all the welding on this hoop with it clamped in place on the body skeleton. (When I made the seat deck hoop I only tack welded it around the inside face of the curves and then removed it and clamped it to a table for the majority of the welding.) Leaving the piece clamped to the skeleton seemed to work okay and did not result in any warping that could not be remedied.


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  [Entry #92]

02-05-2005 09:03 PM Rat - Cowl cross member
Here are a couple shots of the cowl cross member after being welded and ground. Also note that I have tack welded in place the top cross member of the windshield. This top plate is made out of 1x2 tubing.


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  [Entry #91]

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