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hotrodders.com: Project Journals: cboy's Journal
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View cboy's profile Entries: 220
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02-05-2005 08:53 PM Rat - Cowl cross member
Next I fabricated the cowl cross member (also serves as the lower windshield cross member) from 1x1 square tube. I want about a 2" rise from the outside of the cowl to the enter of the cowl. I used my pipe bender to bend the tubing.

Photo #1 shows the slightly different method I used for bending this piece. I removed the curved wheels from the bender (you can see them in the prior entry when I bent the rear deck ribs) and just used the axle bolts which hold the curved wheels in place (silver in the picture). If you look closely you will see lines I drew on the two axle bolts to keep the square tubing in the center of the machine. This helps prevent the tube from getting a twist bent into it by being out of alignment. Also, by just using the flat axle bolts the tubing has less tendency to slip or move out of place as it did with the curved wheels in place. This experiment did seem to improve the bends.

Photo #2 shows the cowl cross member after being bent. The center is 2" higher than the ends. The curve is made with a series of bends in the tube at 3 inch intervals

Photo #3 The cross member is clamped in place and ready for welding (this is the drivers side corner). Note the use of 1x2 scrap tubing which is clamped to the door jamb and used to line up the cross member with the front of the jamb. The cross member is welded to the door jamb and the windshield post.


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  [Entry #90]

02-05-2005 08:30 PM Rat - Windshield posts
With the rear deck skeleton nearly finished we can move forward to the cowl area. I cut simple windshield posts from 1x2 rectangular tube. My original plan called for a 13 1/2" tall windshield but after getting the body this far along and doing some "test seating" I was concerned the the windshield would be too low and would allow too much air flow into the cockpit. I mocked up some posts at 17" but didn't like the proportion and look. So I went back to my original plan and cut the posts at 13 1/2" as shown in Photo # 1

Photo #2 & #3 show the posts welded to the top of the front door jambs.


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  [Entry #89]

02-03-2005 09:13 PM Rat - Rear Deck To Rib
Here are three views of the new top ribs and the new seat deck hoop all welded in place.


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  [Entry #88]

02-03-2005 09:05 PM Rat - Rear Deck Top Ribs
Photo #1 shows the driver's side top rib being positioned. This same routine was used to position the passenger side rib shown in the prior entry but the process gets so "cluttered" it is difficult to see what is actually going on. I figured it would be easier to understand if you saw the prior shots first - without all the clamps and spacers in place. Note the use of 1x2 tubing pieces as spacers to position the top rib exactly 2" above and 2" inside of the skeleton side piece. This positioning allows for a 3" radius curve which will transition from the top of the deck to the top of the side skeleton (hope that makes sense). The top rib, which I am now installing, will also act as the outside perimeter of the trunk opening.

Photo #2 is another view of 1x2 tubing being used to properly position the top rib, this time at the tail of the car.

Photo #3 I call this the "Sea of Clamps". From the prior entries you hopefully have a good idea of what is going on but this is how it actually looks just prior to welding. Lots of clamps and lots of spacer bars to get everything properly positioned and held tight. Hope you make out what is happening.


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  [Entry #87]

02-03-2005 08:37 PM Rat - Rear Deck Top Ribs
With the seat deck hoop solidly welded in place I can now begin to install the top ribs of the rear deck. (See journal entries 64-67 showing how these ribs were fabricated.)

Photo #1 shows the passenger side top rib being positioned and clamped to the existing skeleton section and the new seat deck hoop.

Photo #2 Here is a rear view of the new top rib being positioned for welding. Note the cross bracing in the drivers compartment area which holds the two side skeleton sections in place. It is very important at this juncture that everything is square and true and that it stays that way throughout the rest of the fabrication process.

Photo #3 Another shot of the passenger side top rib being readied for welding.


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  [Entry #86]

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