Photo #1 shows the hinge parts prior to assembly. On the very top is one of the hinge pin holders from the prior journal entry. Below that on the far left is the long leg of the hinge. I cut this from 1 1/2" wide 1/4" flat steel. This leg will bolt to the door. To the right of the long leg is the short leg of the hinge, also cut from 1/4" flat steel. Next is the hinge sleeve which is made of 5/8" steel tube bored out to 1/2" I.D. I cut the tube 1 3/4" long. Next to the sleeve are the bushings for the pin. The bushings are just 1" pieces of 1/2" nylon tube I found at the local Ace - not sure what they are actually for. I used one full piece and half of another for each pin (they only had them in 1" lengths). Finally, on the far right is the hinge pin - a 3/8" grade 8 bolt which is 3" long.
Photo #2 shows the hinge parts "leaned together".
Photo #3 shows the legs of the hinge welded together. Once the welding is completed I once again put the hinge in the drill press and re-bored the center hole of the sleeve to 1/2" to eliminate any warpage caused by the welding process.
I'm making the front door jambs of 2x3 .125 rectangular tubing. My intention was to use 2x2 tubing but the hinge configuration would not quite fit.
Photo #1 below shows the five pieces of tubing which will be used for each door jamb (this is the driver's side jamb). Three of the pieces are vertical and two are turned on there side and welded in place to serve as hinge pin holders.
Photo #2 shows the hinge pin holders (offset pieces). If you look closely you can see the holes which have been drilled for the 3/8" pins. Also just visible on the back side of the vertical jamb pieces are the access slots I cut in the tubing so that I can remove the pins and take out the hinges in the event of a problem. I didn't want to weld everything up tight only to discover some major error which would require completely redoing the jambs. Also, if the hinge bushings wear out in the future I'll want easy access to replace them.
Photo #3 shows the jamb pieces clamped to a solid piece of 2x3 tubing to keep them positioned and straight for welding. Although it is not real clear, you can just make out a piece of threaded rod at the lower right of the photo. This 3/8" rod is run down through the vertical tubing and then through the holes of the hinge pin holders to keep the hinge holes in direct alignment during welding. If the upper and lower hinge pins are not perfectly in line the door may bind.
Photos 1,2, and 3. I still need to build the front door jambs and hinge mechanism but I have laid out the skeleton components for the drivers side of the car at this point to insure that everything is lining up with the plan as drawn on the 3/4" fiberboard. The bottom rail of the body is 1x2 14 gauge tubing, the rear jamb is 2x3 .125 wall tubing and the other ribs are 1x1 either 14 gauge or .125.
THE CONCAVE EFFECT. I should point out here my huge dilemma regarding the concave effect. Our good buddy from down under, Rob (Chuck) Berry has been kind enough to let me pick his brain via email about how he hand built his '34 using salvage yard pieces of existing sheet metal. If you haven't checked out his journal, by all means do so. Not real large yet but does show some very impressive and creative work on a minimal budget. Anyhow, as we exchanged emails, Rob brought up the problem of "concave effect" when building flat slided bodies. Basically, when painted, perfectly flat sheet metal will actually appear to be concave or bowed in. This is something I was not aware of in my plans to stay with a simple flat side on this body. What is required is that all sheet metal pieces be crowned. And in order to crown the sheet metal, I would need to bend/bow all the pieces of the body skeleton to match.
After many hours of wrestling with this newly discovered problem and thinking through the many associated complications of putting a crown in all the sheet metal and ribbing, I have decided to stick with my original plan and make the side panels and door panels flat. This does not refute Rob's observations and experience in any way - and my apologies to Rob for having him answer all my questions only to end up disregarding his sage advice. My basic reason for sticking with the flat sides is my total lack of metal working skills. My intention is to finish this body the way I originally planned it and then, if the concave effect rears its ugly head, I will then take my time to build a second body"the right way" while I'm having fun scooting around town in Mr. Ugly Bod. If my calculations are correct, the cost of metal for a second generation body would not be that outlandish. The huge investment one must make is in time. Not only the time to build the body but the time required to learn all the skills along the way. And I'd rather have the car finished and running before I invest a ton of hours learning the metal working skills I will need to build a more perfect coach. Anyhow, thanks again to Rob for his guidance - even if I didn't incorporate all his ideas into this particular body.