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hotrodders.com: Project Journals: cboy's Journal
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View cboy's profile Entries: 220
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12-18-2004 11:28 AM Rat - rear shock mounts
Photo # 1 shows the pieces for the upper and lower rear shock mount. All pieces are cut from 3/16" flat stock. The two pieces on the left are for the upper mount and the two on the right are for the lower mount. After mocking up the shock in a number of positions are found that a perpendicular mounting position on the front of the axle house would work the best.

Photo# 2 shows the pieces for the upper shock mount clamped in place for welding.

Photo# 3 shows the pieces for the lower shock mount welded in place.


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  [Entry #55]

12-18-2004 11:15 AM Rat - Upper rear sping perches
Now that the weight of the engine and trans are fully on the frame I can finish off my upper rear spring perches and shock mounts and be in the ballpark of the correct final ride height. My original intention at this point was to weld these perches in permanently but now that I am at this juncture I have figured out a mount that I think will give me a little bit of ride height adjustment and be removable and replaceable should things not come out correctly when the full weight of the body/passenger/etc. are on the vehicle.

Photo #1 shows the pieces for the upper rear spring perch. The top plate (in center of three pieces) is 1/4" flat stock 4" wide and 9" long. I then welded a circle made of 1/8" flat stock to this top plate to form the upper spring cup (a prior journal entry shows my low tech method of fabricating these circles). Also shown in the this photo are (at right) the "rib" which will reinforce the top plate of the upper spring cup and (at left) the lower plate which will be welded directly to the frame.

Photo #2 shows the parts of the upper rear spring perch bolted together and will give you an idea of how it will go on the frame and have a bit of adjustment by moving the nuts up and down. The head of each bolt will be welded solid to the mount.

Photo #3 shows the pieces for the upper spring mount welded in place. One minor tip - if you ever need to weld grade 8 bolts to steel, be sure to sand or wire brush off that gold plate color on the bolts. I quickly discovered this coating will contaminate a weld.


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  [Entry #54]

12-13-2004 10:32 PM Rat - The Power is In
Three shots of the project as of 12/13/04 with the engine and transmission installed.




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  [Entry #53]

12-13-2004 10:21 PM Rat - engine mounts
Photo #1 - The engine mounts are fairly straight forward. First, I made sure the engine was level front to back and side to side (do this by placing a level or angle finder across the top of the carburetor). To make my mounts I used the rubber cushion portion from the stock mount and bolted it to the engine. I then cut a piece of 3/16" plate steel 4" x 4" and drilled a hole in it so the plate would fit squarely against the bottom of the stock rubber cushion. This plate can be seen in the photo at the top of the mount, bolted to the engine.

Using cardboard I then fabricated templates for the mounting bars - which extend from the 3/16" plate down to the frame rail. Once I had the length and angles correct on the cardboard templates, I transfered the dimensions to some 1 x 2 rectangular tubing and cut the mounting bars. The bars were then clamped and welded in place.

Photo #2 shows the completed passenger side mount from the front.

Photo #3 shows the completed driver side mount from the front.




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  [Entry #52]

12-13-2004 09:54 PM Rat - Transmission mount
Photo#1 - After completing the front and rear suspension I clamped two pieces of rectangular tubing as temporary cross members to the under side of the frame and lowered the engine and transmission so they rested on these cross members. Once the full weight of the engine/trans was on the chassis it gave me a fair estimate of how much the front and rear springs will compress when the car is completed. With the full weight of the eng/trans in place I adjusted the front coil over brackets and the rear spring holders to re-establish the ride height I had originally intended. I also did a rough check of the camber at this point and adjusted the front coil overs accordingly. This gave me a slightly lower (about 1/2") ride height than I had originally designed - but still well within the scrub line.

I then proceeded to position the engine and transmission into its final position. I continued to use the temporary cross members to do this. This keeps the bottom of the transmission pan just even with the bottom of frame rails. The sump of the engine oil pan will extend about 1" below the frame rails.

The only tricky part about positioning the engine/trans is the rear end pinion offset. To help compensate for the 2" pinion offset I decided to offset the engine and trans 1" toward the passenger side. I will thus end up with a 1" side to side offset in a 24" run between the trans and the rear end.

Photo # 2 - Once the front of the crank and the trans tail shaft were properly positioned for the off set I cut a piece of 2x3 rectangular tubing for the rear cross member. I then bolted the original trans mount - with the original rubber cushion - to the trans and positioned the 2x3 tubing directly behind it and in the "flat" position (the 3" side horizontal). I then measured and cut a piece of 4" wide 1/4 flat plate steel and drilled holes to match the mount bolts on the bottom of the stock mount. I then bolted this piece of plate steel to the mount so that the 3" tail of the piece extended toward the rear and directly under the new cross member. I then clamped the 1/4 plate to the cross member and tack welded it in place. At this point I unbolted the mount and removed the cross member to do the final welding of the 1/4" plate to the cross member. The completed cross member was then re-installed, bolted up snug to the transmission, and the ends were then welded to the frame rails.

Photo # 3 is a close up of the stock trans mount showing how it sits on the 1/4 plate which is welded to the bottom of the cross member.


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  [Entry #51]

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