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View Huckster's profile Entries: 9
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01-04-2015 09:27 PM Garage heater success
My unheated (but insulated) garage is approximately 22'x24' with a 9' 6"ceiling. I had the opportunity today to test out the garage heater my kids got me for Christmas. The unit they got me was a 38000 BTU propane unit and it was not able to bring the temp up over 8 degrees Celsius (46 F)even after being on for 75 minutes. The outdoor temp here today was -24 C (-11 F). I figured with it that cold outside that the heater would not be up to the task and I was correct. I made a trip to Princess Auto here in the city and exchanged the unit (with a little extra cash) for a 60000 BTU unit. I started the new heater up and the temperature of the garage was up to 16 C (61 F) in about 45 minutes. I find this to be quite reasonable and will make some attempts to get out there this week and straighten the garage and store some fenders, doors and hoods so I can get the cab off the chassis and the donor one set in place. This might not be such a bad winter after all.

  [Entry #9]

12-29-2014 02:13 PM Starting up yet again
Things for me slowed down to a crawl due to work, home renovations and family things. I did however get the truck torn apart and have the cab, engine and tranny to remove from the chassis. I have pondered the whole S10 chassis swap thing and have decided to go with the Mustang II IFS route.

I searched the web for opinions on kits from several different manufacturers and found a nice bolt-in kit from Chassis Engineering that a number of people had good things to say about.

Then came the issue of getting one at a decent price as I live north of the border eh. I got rather lucky and found one for sale locally. The guy I got it from had a 1951 truck project he had been working on and sold a couple years back. He was cleaning his garage out and found parts that he forgot he had and let the IFS kit go for $350- a steal compared to buying and shipping from the States. I also purchased a nice set of upper and lower A-arms on EBAY and will continue to pick up parts to complete the front end over the winter.

Last fall when I looked over the sheet metal of the cab I noted that the roof was quite thin on the passenger side and thought I might try to get another cab instead of patching it. I could find replacement roof panels for 1947-53 but not for 1954/55 first series. I picked up a different cab and all front sheet metal for $350- again locally. The new cab and front end sheet metal is in much better shape and will require less patching than the first cab. I will choose the best parts from both trucks and sell off the others.

Now with the crappy and cold temperatures here during Alberta winters, and the fact I do not have a heated garage, I have not been able to get out of the house and play in the garage. My kids did get me a portable propane garage heater that I'm dying to try out this week. I have proper ventilation set up and will safely be able to get back to having some fun.

It is my hope that my son will finally take some real interest in helping me out- I know all the work can be tedious and boring but it needs to be done so you can get a finished project. Besides if he helps out he will eventually be able to drive it sometimes-how great would that be for him to show his hard work and efforts to his buddies.

As this is my first build I looked for some type of building guide or log to ensure I am doing things is the right order. I have looked on this site and others and compiled a list (see below). I would appreciate any feedback/ additions etc that I might have missed.

Vehicle build guide (basic list)

Truck - basic tear down

Remove bumpers
Front
bumper
splash apron/filler panel
support brackets

Rear
bumper
splash apron
support brackets

Remove exterior lights and accessories

Front
signal/marker/roof/fender lights
headlights
beauty rings
trim rings
lens/bulb assembly
bucket
housing
inner fender wiring grommet
mirrors
antennae
wiper arms

Rear
brake lights
signal/marker lights
license plate bracket

Remove sheet metal components

Box
tailgate and chains
spare tire carrier
fenders
fender support braces
bed side panels
front bed panel
metal bed strips
wood bed strips
front cross sill
middle cross sills
rear cross sill

Cab
doors
radiator
radiator support
lower radiator support panel
grill
hood
hood latch panel
fenders
inner fenders
inner fender filler plates
remove cab shell from frame


Other
running boards
running board splash aprons

Strip the chassis

remove Drivetrain
motor
transmission

Remove Suspension & steering
wheels and components
front leaf springs
rear leaf springs
rear differential
steering components

Remove Brake system
master cylinder/booster
drums
lines

Accessory Brackets
*** leave running board brackets in place
*** leave battery tray in place if keeping in same location


Preparation and restoration/finishing

Chassis prep and drive train fitting

***Ensure chassis is stripped of all parts except running board brackets

Measure chassis for level and squareness and check for structural damage.
(take to frame shop for straightening if necessary)

Remove paint, rust, oil, grease, and other contaminants.
(via blasting, chemical stripper, or wire brush)

Weld in boxing plates for updated suspension set up

Bolt in/weld in new suspension mounting hardware
(IFS crossmember and brackets for rear leaf springs)

Assemble all suspension components and wheels to complete a rolling chassis.
(install rear differential from S10 4x4)

Place cab on chassis and test fit engine and transmission for placement.
(leave space for cooling fan, distributer, and other engine accessories)

Cut firewall and cab floor sheet metal as needed to accommodate engine and transmission

Install /weld in motor mounts and transmission mount.

Temporarily install seating in cab and test fit/position steering column and linkage pathway.
(beneficial to have header in place on the driver's side)

Test fit and determine position for under bed mounted gas tank
(fabricate and weld in mounting brackets)

Remove engine, transmission, and cab from chassis.
Remove gas tank.

Complete welding and all modification to chassis.

Disassemble suspension components.

Clean chassis and seal metal with POR-15 or similar product.
Apply epoxy primer to all surfaces and paint.


Chassis reassembly and finishing

Assemble/install all suspension components and wheels to complete a rolling chassis.

Install engine and transmission
(leave driveshaft uninstalled at this time)

Install headers and exhaust system.

Install brake master and booster on chassis if using chassis mounted system

Plumb brake lines and install appropriate valves as needed
(plumb chassis lines only if master is to be mounted on the firewall)
(plumb all lines if master is mounted under the cab)
Fill brake system with fluid and bleed system.

Plumb fuel lines

Install exhaust system.

COMPLETED CHASSIS IS COVERED AND SAFELY STORED
ENSURE CARB AND OTHER OPENINGS ARE WELL PROTECTED
FROM CONTAMINANTS THAT COULD ENTER THE ENGINE SYSTEMS.


Cab preparation and restoration

PREPARATION
Remove windshield and rear window
Remove seat and lower frame
Remove gas tank
Remove headliner and interior light
Remove steering wheel and column
Remove glove compartment door and inner liner
Remove heater core/blower assembly and ductwork
Remove gauges
Remove wiper motor assembly
Remove 6 volt wiring components
Remove cowl vent assembly
Remove carpet/rubber floor covering/ heat & sound dampening material on firewall
Remove sound dampening material behind gas tank
Remove all switches, lights, wiring and other accessories from the dashboard

Fabricate mounting brackets for new seats and test fit new seats for proper positioning.
Determine location for mounting of seatbelt attachment points-mark for mounting plates
Test fit steering column for proper positioning and fabricate brackets for dash and firewall mounts.
Test fit control pedals for proper positioning while seat and steering wheel/column are in position

Remove all items that were installed for test fitting

Remove paint, rust, oil, grease, and other contaminants from cab sheet metal.
(via blasting, chemical stripper, or wire brush)

RESTORATION
Assess sheet metal and determine what replacement panels are needed
Remove sheet metal needing replacement and weld in patch panels
(ensure braces are welded in if required to maintain cab integrity and shape)

Assess sheet metal and identify dents for repair
Repair using puller, hammer & dolly and filler as needed

Alter firewall and cab floor sheet metal to accommodate the engine and
transmission if additional clearance is needed-fabricate panels as needed.

Reinstall doors and check fitment- make adjustments as needed
Install and weld new latches in doors and door pillars.

Complete customization of dashboard layout/shape/gauge placement
Weld fill unwanted holes and openings on firewall.

Apply self-etching primer to all surfaces.
Apply urethane primer to all surfaces and spray guidecoat.
Identify high/low spots-repair using hammer and dolly or filler as needed
Apply additional primer and then sealer in preparation for paint.


MORE STEPS HERE for painting finishing

Door preparation and restoration

PREPARATION
Remove hardware- handles and cranks
Remove glass, tracks, and guides.

Remove paint, rust, oil, grease, and other contaminants from cab sheet metal.
(via blasting, chemical stripper, or wire brush)

RESTORATION
Assess sheet metal and determine what replacement panels are needed
Remove sheet metal needing replacement and weld in patch panels

Assess sheet metal and identify dents for repair
Repair using hammer and dolly and filler as needed

Reinstall doors on cab and check fitment- make adjustments as needed
Install and weld new latches in doors and pillars

Apply self-etching primer to all surfaces.
Apply urethane primer to all surfaces and spray guidecoat.
Identify high/low spots-repair using hammer and dolly or filler as needed
Apply additional primer and then sealer in preparation for paint.

MORE STEPS HERE for painting finishing
Sheet metal panel preparation and restoration

PREPARATION
Remove paint, rust, oil, grease, and other contaminants from cab sheet metal.
(via blasting, chemical stripper, or wire brush)

RESTORATION
Assess sheet metal and determine what replacement panels are needed
Remove sheet metal needing replacement and weld in patch panels

Assess sheet metal and identify dents for repair
Repair dents and apply filler products as needed.

Complete customization on panels.
(Frenched lights, louvers, chops, channeling, etc.)
Weld fill unwanted holes and openings on panels

Apply self-etching primer to all surfaces.
Apply urethane primer to all surfaces and spray guidecoat.
Identify high/low spots-repair using hammer and dolly or filler as needed
Apply additional primer and then sealer in preparation for paint.

MORE STEPS HERE for painting finishing.

Huckster

  [Entry #8]

12-29-2014 02:10 PM Starting up yet again


  [Entry #7]

09-14-2012 09:46 PM Tear down begins
I have the truck in my garage and have begun the task of tearing things apart and assessing what I'll need to replace in the way of sheet metal. The 1954 Chevy I picked up for a whole $350 is actually in better shape that I had originally figured. I will need cab corners and other patch panels but overall most of the rust is surface and will be more than workable. I also am impressed that all the original glass is still intact. Often these older vehicles are riddled with bullet holes but I have only found 1 just above the rear window.

Thus far I have removed the headlights, grill,and most of the interior parts including the seat frame and the gas tank. I have put these items up for sale locally as I plan to do a rear frame mount tank and use more modern seating.


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  [Entry #6]

09-02-2012 09:43 PM Return to the world of the living
After a very long time away I have returned to the site. My ambitious endeavor from 8 years ago never did come to fruition as time money and more importantly family responsibilities kept me from getting things done. In the end I had to put everything on hold and unfortunately passed the car on to someone else to work on.

That's all water under the bridge now and I'm gearing up to start on a new project now that I have the time and some money to play at something I want to do.

I'll post some pics soon of the 1954 Chevy 3100 pickup I recently acquired and will be bringing home this Tuesday. I have 2 boys who are really excited to learn and help on this project. I am just as excited as well to have something constructive to do with them.

I'll look forward to hearing from other site members for advice and tips on how to proceed when I hit those roadblocks and mindfart moments.

As a starter I wouldn't mind hearing opinions on the S10 (reg cab extended wheelbase) swap for the original frame idea... I'm all all ears.

Good to be back and it looks like people have been doing some fantastic work on their projects.

Huckster

  [Entry #5]

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