Step two, find a suitable stainless steel reflector tube to fit the lights in. An ideal 4" id ready polished tube was found on a visit to my local DIY store. Two s/steel lavatory brush sets were purchased for £12. As they came with 4" id polished s/steel tubes for placing said lavatory brush into, they were ideal and much cheaper than purchasing the steel from a local stockist, that is if they were to have the right s/steel tube in stock anyway.
Rear light design and fabrication has been difficult to decide upon but finally I have come up with something I/we [all involved] have agreed fits the bill nicely
Not wanting to just plonk on what would fit and look O.K.
Go with the smooth look of the many slot type kits which are out there, I decided from the outset to design something along the lines of the front lights i.e. modern theme but retaining the original shape/design.
I should have taken pictures of the build but as usual did not so here's how I came up with what you see below.
Step one, purchase from a U.K. kitcar parts supplier the outer LED side/brake light and inner indicator light
The Isle of Man has an old Airfield to it's northern point which has over the years been turned into a small motorsport venue. Usually used for circuit racing track days, this weekend saw the Straightliners motor cycle dragracing club over from the U.K Mainland for a round of their championship. Cars were also invited to "run wot u brung".
The Manxyanks were on hand to steel the show with some of Americas finest.
Quickest four wheeled vehicle was Mac Forbes with his SBChevy powered nostalgia slingshot running a best of 10.9 sec at 118mph. Not bad considering the track was as it is at any time during the year, simply old tarmac, no cncrete launch pad and no trac bite.
Getting onto the Willys I made four passes all in the fourteens
quickest was a 14.21 at 96mph.
To say I am pleased would be an understatement. Running the last 1/3rd of the track on the stock motors redline of 5,000rpm due to the wrong gearing and spinning like crazy off the line through 1st and 2nd meant the above times I think were excellent.
With the car running straight and true with good braking and suspension I couldn't really ask for more
2 months on and the new car blues are just about sorted out.
Problem 1, vibration in the drive train was found to be a badly put together propshaft and rear wheels out of balance. A retube and balance, this time by a company who didn't rip me off cured the prop woes. Simple wheel balance smoothed things out just about completely.
Problem 2, running too hot, atleast I thought it was. Personnely being used to U.K. deg c with gauges reading deg f, I became concerned with driving temps around the 190 mark. Having revised this it appears temps are about normal.
I still plan to fabricate and install a shroud but thats on the winter "to do" list.
Problem 3, Fuel surge. I have been experiencing engine cut out under cornering or excelleration when I ran the car on a third or less tank. I put this down to the lack of baffling in the tank so I expected to cure this after I fitted foam inserts. Summit sent me the desired item, I fitted, tested, cured. I also cleared a parcial blockage in the in line fuel filter and increased the fuel line pressure from 4psi to 6psi
Problem 4, incorrect gearing in the rear axle and chattering noise. New gears 3.50 instead of 4.56's still to be fitted so a full inspection of the rear end will be undertaken. Cooling should be improved too with the lower engine rpm.
Problem 5, well there isn't one really it's just that I now need to complete the car! which is really only
1-figure out the rear lighting I want to use
3-one or two clearence problems to rectify
4-paint, polish and fit the chrome trims