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10-30-2006 07:39 AM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 9
Two problems with drilling the holes in the right place on the pivots:

1. Getting the existing straight-through holes in the rotator turned to
45 degrees.

2. Drilling a new hole in the pivot pipe at 45 degrees, in line with the
holes in the rotator.

The first problem is easy to solve. I just used a level with a 45 degree
surface on one of the 2x2 frame brackets and propped the frame in that
position. If I drilled the holes in the rotator in the right position
for holding the frame level, they should now be in the right position
for drilling a 45 in the pivot.

The second problem required a refresher in geometry. I needed a mark 1/8
of the way around the circumference of the pipe from the first hole
(360/8=45). This could be calculated, but I'm not really interested in
the measurement, hence, the geometry refresher.

I wrapped a sheet of paper around one of the 2-1/2 inch (nom.) pipes,
squared it up by making sure the edges lined up where it overlapped, and
marked it along the overlapping end. A line drawn at 90 degrees to that
mark represents the circumference of the pipe.

Using a compass and straight edge, I drew a perpendicular bisector to
that line. If you're a little rusty on that, see these:

http://mathforum.org/~sanders/geometry/GP05Constructions.html
http://www.mathopenref.com/constbisectline.html (requires javascript)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisection

That gave me 1/2 the circumference. Repeat two more times and there's
the 1/8 mark. All it takes then is to wrap the paper back around the
pipe, line up one end with the center of the existing hole and punch a
mark through the intersection at 1/8. Except, of course, I couldn't wrap
the paper around the pivot pipe because of the pipe welded to it that
makes it the adjustable upright.

That's ok, all I needed was enough of the paper to show one end of the
line and the intersection showing where 1/8 the circumference is. That
gives me how far around the pipe to go and it's easy to measure how far
from the end of the pipe the first hole is drilled.

Using a scratch awl and combination square, I marked the centerlines of
the first hole in the pipe. That gave me a way to align the paper on the
pipe so I could punch a mark to drill the hole at the 45 degree
location. That gave me a way to pin the rotisserie at 0 and 45.

The rotisserie was rotated to 45 degrees in the other direction and
supported there. Again, a level was used on the 2x2 square tubing
holding the frame to set the 45 degree angle. In this position, the hole
I just drilled in the pivot pipe became a guide hole for drilling a new
hole in the rotator pipe (refer to the 1st image in journal entry 109).
The new hole would be 90 degrees from the first hole in the rotator. I
just had to make sure the same amount of the rotator pipe was sticking
out from the pivot pipe before drilling.

The procedure was repeated at the other end of the rotisserie to get the
same arrangement of holes drilled into the pivot pipe and rotator pipe
for the other end stand. Each end stand can be pinned at any multiple of
45 degrees throughout a full rotation.

Photo 1: Tools used for getting 1/8 the circumference of the pivot pipe.
That line marked "0" on the left is where the other end of the sheet of
paper overlapped when it was wrapped around the pipe.

Photo 2: Strip cut from the paper in photo 1, aligned with the
centerline marks of the 1st hole. You can see I was off a little when I
punched the mark for drilling the 2nd hole.

Photo 3: A montage of 9 photos, showing the rotator pipe pinned at 0,
45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315 and back to 0.

(This montage was produced using the program "montage" from ImageMagick:
http://imagemagick.org

The images were named 000.jpg, 045.jpg, 090.jpg, 135.jpg, 180.jpg,
225.jpg, 270.jpg, 315.jpg and the command used was:

montage +frame +shadow +label -quality 85 -borderwidth 4 \
-bordercolor white -tile 3x3 -geometry 256x192+0+0 000.jpg \
045.jpg 090.jpg 135.jpg 180.jpg 225.jpg 270.jpg 315.jpg \
000.jpg 3x3-small.jpg

That's a mouthful, but it's easier for me to just tell it what I want
than to fiddle around with a mouse, dragging and resizing and
repositioning stuff in a graphical program, at least, in this
situation. I didn't want to edit each image, just stick them together
as equal parts of one image.)



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #113]

10-13-2006 12:22 AM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 8
When I get absorbed in working on something, it's not safe for anyone
else to be in the area. Tools and parts seem to accumulate on the floor
where ever I happen to need them for a given task.

Photo 1: A sensible person would crop this photo or clean up the
disaster area before taking the shot. This photo is from the front of
the frame looking back. The two pieces of 2x2 square tubing running
diagonally from the top of the photo to the floor were there to contain
the frame if anything went wrong. They wouldn't stop it from falling to
the floor, but they would direct it on its way down so it wouldn't come
after me.

Note the wedges under the end stand. That piece of angle stock
came from some kind of frame used for football practice. I wouldn't want
to anger whoever was able to bend that thing. It was curved before I
welded it to the pipe. Even without the wedges under the ends, the whole
assembly did not rock bad enough to be scary. I'll add feet to it later
to correct that.

Photo 2: One side of the frame still had the front suspension components
attached and I was curious about what the thing would do if I pulled the
pins in the pivot pipes and let it come to rest. I moved the 2x2
catch-post out of the way, used a 48" farm jack to lift that side enough
to relieve pressure on the pins, pulled the pins and let the jack down.
It wasn't even dramatic. The thing just laid over until the back of the
frame touched the coil spring sticking up from the rear suspension on
the floor, bounced back about 2 inches and then came to rest as you see
it in the picture. It didn't rock, clatter, bang or jump. Look closely
at the wedge under the base and compare it to the position in the first
photo. The base moved about an inch as the frame rolled over. I like it
when stuff I make doesn't scare me.

Photo 3: Another view of the un-pinned frame and rotisserie.

Still to do:

1. Drill a hole through the pivot pipe at 45 degrees from the one that
is in each, now. (Total number of holes in pipe: 4). Placing these holes
at 45 degrees clockwise from the first hole, in each end stand, lets me
pin the frame at +45 or -45 without having 2 sets of 45 holes in each
stand.

2. Drill a hole through the rotator at 90 degrees from the
one that is in each, now. (Total number of holes in pipe: 4).

This arrangement limits the number of holes needed in any one pipe to 4
(straight through the pipe twice) while still letting me pin the frame
at 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315.

3. Clean up the aftermath.

It will likely be next spring before the frame is ready to come out and
the body take its place in the rotisserie. That's assuming winter is
mild enough and I get to work on cleaning up that frame.



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #112]

10-13-2006 12:11 AM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 7
(Refer to the 1st image in journal entry 109 for names of parts).

Photo 1: The rear of the frame was attached to the adjustable carrier,
which was bolted to the swing arm right against and just above the
rotator. This puts the rear of the frame about 6 inches above the
centerline of the pivot pipe.

Photo 2: The front of the frame was attached directly to the rotator,
with the pivot pipe the same distance above the floor as the rear pivot
(shown in photo 1). Eyeballing from one pivot to the other is along a
line that passes through the big X in the frame where the driveshaft
used to be.

Photo 3: The front of the frame was otherwise attached just like the
back, using the original bumper bracket mount holes in the frame. All
bolts through the 2x2 square steel tubing were centered across the width
of the tubing.

Almost all of the frame is accessible for cleaning. Very little is
blocked by the brackets used to hold it in the rotisserie.



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #111]

10-12-2006 10:13 PM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 6
(Refer to the first image in entry 109 for names of the parts).

Photo 1: This is one of the adjustable carriers attached to a piece of
square steel tubing that is in turn attached to the rear of the Olds'
frame. A swing arm pipe is shoved through the adjustable carrier, but
not attached to it.

Photo 2: I attached brackets made of 2x2 square tubing to the same holes
that the bumper brackets were originally bolted to the frame. It's very
likely overkill, but I used grade 8, 1/2" bolts everywhere.

Photo 3: The garage is again a wreck, but the frame is in the
rotisserie. At the time of this photo, only the rear of the frame was
supported by the rotisserie.

The front was still being held up by 3 different things: 2 square steel
posts jammed from ceiling joists to floor, a 48" farm jack and a
'come-along' hanging from a chain. I discovered that the way I had
attached the front of the frame to the rotisserie was not going to work
at all. I had the front pivot pipe about 10" below the rear frame pivot
pipe and they were fighting over which axis of rotation the frame should
use. I had to leave the front hanging while altering the attachment.
That broke some drill bits and took some time.



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #110]

10-12-2006 09:36 PM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 5
Things have interfered with progress on the rotisserie since my last
journal entry. I've just finished testing it with the frame of the
Oldsmobile and it works. Now it's time to bring this journal up to date.

First image: Parts need names, so I've taken the side view drawing from
an earlier entry and stuck some labels on the parts.

Photo 2: This is one of two adjustable carriers. Since it will be
attached to a piece of 11 ga. 2x2 square steel tubing, the angle pieces
need to be held flat. I clamped the parts to a frame, made out of small
angle stock, that used to hold dumb-bells in a weight room. The angle
pieces were tack-welded at each end and top and bottom before being
fully welded. Note that every surface to be welded has been cleaned with
a grinder.

Photo 3: The underside, showing how the side pieces can be tacked
underneath before taking the clamps off. This is actually a photo of the
2nd adjustable carrier being assembled, taken 2 days later when I got
some more spare time to work on it.



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #109]

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