Now that the car is running and driving my time is spent either driving, or fixing things that are buggy. I've still been dealing with leaks on this. trans fluid leaks, engine oil leaks. I think the trans is leaking from the input shaft seal- likely because my Lakewood housing isn't centered enough. I've been reading about this and everything will have to come back out so I'm dreading this one as it involves holes in the sheet metal to access bolts. time to make a removable cover. The other has been engine oil. Turns out the shop that built my engine sold me some defective parts- the valve covers were warped! They're going to get an earful from me on this, as they upsold me on the covers in the first place, then they leaked from day one, charged me for a new gasket- which popped out and spewed oil all over. When I was fixing this is when I discovered that it was warped. bowed like a canoe. It's no wonder the gasket popped out, the cover was so warped it went off past the cylinder head. Furthermore it was hitting the rocker arms. clack clack clack and the cover would shake. not good. So ground down the inside to make more room, bent the cover back in a press and had help decking it so it would be flat again. still leaked. bad. so much oil was dribbling out there was smoke coming out from the hood vents I recently made. So I ordered new billet covers (avoiding these welded ones altogether). I had to modify the oil cap to work with my catch can assy, which I promptly ruined when trying to braze it together. Lesson learned: don't overheat aluminum. $62 later a second oil cap (yes, the cap was $50 plus tax and shipping. grrr) and some careful brazing and I think I have it fixed. At least this one. I'm still getting dribbles somewhere but I can't seem to find where they're coming from. It's dry around the valve cover yet it's still wet around the exhaust header flange/ bolts. Either it's still leaking or it's residue from before that hasn't burnt off.
Also having issues with my parking brakes. The drums are wearing against the axles. Other than the wheel cylinder there isn't anything inside to hold them in place. A stock oem assembly would have a bracket at the top, but, since this is using a universal backing plate a cover plate is there instead- and with the pressed on Torino bearings it's impossible to install one of the oem clips, so I added some springs to help hold them in place. Seems to be doing the trick.
I also hogged out my ram air vents to help with airflow in the engine bay. I'm having overheating issues with my driver side header melting everything around it. I'll probably have to throw on another (closed) set if/ when I make it to a track day so I'm not adding too much air pressure in the engine bay/ lift in front, but I would think this should be Ok for street driving. If anyone has any experience on this I'd like to hear about it.
After performing some honeydo's this weekend I spent a little time on the bird's hood to cut holes for the hood vents. I quickly sprayed some Eastwood rust encapsulator on it, and the fender tops and spoiler, too. It's by no means pretty, but it'll do for now.
I'm slacking. Time for an update. I got the car running a few weeks back and have been sorting things out since. Leaks galore, rebuilt an overly loud exhaust (personally I don't mind it but I do have neighbors and I'd like my wife to ride in this) which needed modification to fit, wiring issues, bolts to be re-tightened, etc. My header is melting my engine mount, I'll need to insulate them as they are close together. Typical stuff...
After plumbing in a return line to get the fuel pressure right, and discovering that I had the 12v switched power line hooked up to a terminal that didn't have power when the key was in "start" it now runs. I even drove it, too. Next is to get an alignment and I ordered some new mufflers that are quieter as I want my wife to ride in this, ha ha