I originally want to keep the dash stock. I don't like the dash inserts so I made mine using the stock frame. The Instruments are a bit larger, but I think it looks Ok. I made an under dash panel, actually did it twice. I found a stainless trim piece to use on the cluster I put in this panel. Kinda looks like the stock panel and glove box trim. The strip was going on the bottom of the instruments. The panel under the dash should still be wider ,so instruments can be seen better. I lowered the gauges and put the strip over them. This panel is 3'' wide. I wish I had made it 4 or more and put the stereo in it also. How many do overs have you done?
I picked up a radio head cheap, $10, these things go for more that I would pay for usually,the face was good, volume shaft rusted away I used brake line and a bolt to piece enough shaft to get the dial shaft to work. Then I epoxed the treads from GM headlight switches to the radio so I can use custom besels on the shafts and knobs. I did not want to cut my stock dash covers because i might not like the result and too hard to work with. I cleaned the dash pieces, put masking tape around the edges, applied car wax to the surface and made a plaster of paris mold. The mold needed a little work to get it smooth. I painted it to seal it and just put car wax on it. Then I laid it up with fiber glass and resin. 2 or 3 coats ?? and embedded bolts for the ash tray cover mounts. I cut holes for the radio and a centre A/C vent, painted the covers and installed everything.
The stereo is in the glove box. I think I'd rather have it in the under dash panel. This panel would have to be wider. I have a hugh amp in the car. I bought 10'' woofers to use, but there is enough bass from the Infinity speakers, back 6x9, front 6'' round. I don't need no stinking sub woofers.
oops another thought, The rear deck is not wide enough to mount 6x9 speakers properly. I cut a "D" shape hole in the deck and made a wood gasket the size of the speaker. I glued the wood gasket over the D holes and sealed around it as the deck is corrigated. I see guys with speakers just hanging in the back. They need to be properly mounted so you can only hear one wave from the speakers. My speaker grills will cover the holes. The sound from this stereo will make your ears bleed, certainly hurt enough to give me a headaxche.The car is not finished, all the windows raddle, the doors squeak and the car is loud enough that the stereo has to be on loud just to hear it. Hey it's only rock and roll. I also have twin 7'' TV screens for the rear seats. I haven't watched any movies, but bet the sound should be better than my home theatre.
add* I moved the wiper switch away from the windshield about 1'', made it easier to grab.
she's coming apart soon for paint. I never even drove the car this year.
I changed to normal spindles, had 2 '' dropped before.Use a bigger tire on front also 215/60/15. It wasn't that the front was too low, I couldn't get the back low enough without using a tiny tire.
I have new 15''mags sitting in boxes,undecided on tire size,not crazy for the 20'' rim look.I'm hoping the rear will settle a bit,may put a 1'' block in. 195/60 tire on front now, I'm thinking of going a bit bigger 215? and hoping for 275/60 for rear.
Anyone think the front is too low? Cisco
I used wrecker tires close to sizes I think I want, $5 each and I painted the white walls just to see if I liked the look,they cracked as soon as the car rolled,have about 100 miles on car but still looks like white walls,cheap too latex primer.I have the original grill and front bumper on now.I have a repro bumper that I picked up cheap and a nice 34 Ford that I might use for the front. I used 39 wiper towers and new electric motor,I heard the white metal crappy chain part break last night grrr. Never thought I'd fill the dash up like it is, gauges,wiring ,heat and a/c ,it's going to be fun changing the wiper tower.I used stainless shorty headers from Ebay, had to ding them for plugs and bought heat sheilds cheap on Ebay,ran a 2'' exhaust with Holley stainless mufflers,$60pair Ebay, louder than I'd like.Drive train is 350 sbc, 350 trany, 2:73 posi 10 bolt rear.I want to afford to drive this, runs good, doesn't have warp drive.gas mileage still sucks tho.Notice:large moon hubcaps fall off.
I modified an s10 bake pedal and used a chrome cowl mounted PB reservoir and booster.Car will need some staightening on fenders, body really nice.I want to put the car together, be able to drive it.l can work on the body later and replace glass.I airbrushed bikes long ago and think I can do something nice on the paint.The stereo had to be the first thing working,big amp with 2 x 12'',2 x 6/9, 2 x6'' speakers, couldnt get 6x9 in front doors.Interior will wait until body and paint are done.By the end of Oct l have car together,towed to a garage to help bleed brakes and fire it,Think a day will do? NOT. Holley carb pissed, simple to rebuild but still pissing, bought an Edelbrock carb.I drilled rack end to set screws on steering joints,guess what ? PS fluid poured out the set screw.TCI said the tip was solid and no fluid there,not so there is a torque tube in the input shaft and its hollow-dont drill these.No end to the brake line leaks.Took me a week to fix everything.Round 2, fire car runs nice first try,bleed brakes, trany not taking fluid.The hotrod shop had put the flex plate on backwards and hadn't connected the trany convertor... so close to going for a drive, get it fixed and running.I drove it into town with open shortey headers with short pipes to get exhaust done.I put the old running boards on, have new ones.Chassis engineering says rear springs will settle, but may need lowering blocks.2 '' drop spindles on front, I want the car loowwww.Finally get to drive it,seems to ride hard like it did stock, guess I didn't need sway bars? ;o) I haven't got the hood or grill on yet,but I'm drivin' 'er.Notice: girl dogs don't pee on tires.
Edit: ride got softer and smoother after being driven,guess springs needed to break in.