The window is on hold for now. The interior needs sorted.
The original rear seat had a huge overhang at the front. The area was blocked off with this panel. The new rear seat has an overhang as well. It is not as deep and the bottom of the seat sits a little lower. So that block off panel needs to be modified.
Before it is modified, it needs to be cleaned up. The vinyl was pulled off. The padding remnant and glue was scraped off. Then it was cleaned with acetone. Finally a nylon abrasive wheel, a DA, and a die grinder cleaned it to the point seen in the final photo. A little hammer and dolly work helped as well.
I knocked some of the crud off the four attachment struts by blasting so they could be cut and welded. It needs to go under the seat next to see how much and where to cut.
Unfortunately, the passenger door did not go as well as the driver door.
One point of contact was identified. The depression up near the mounting location for the door opener was slightly hit every time the window went up and down by the plastic guide on the mechanism. Top circle.
One point of "close to contact" was identified at the original mounting hole for the front track.
The lower mechanism mount was also spaced too far out requiring shims to keep the mechanism in line with the front and rear tracks.
All was cut and welded, eliminating the possibility of contact and hopefully eliminating shims.
That's when it all started to go bad. Even though the lower mount was tacked while bolted to the mechanism with the glass in place, it must have moved during the welding process and will still require shims. Not as many but shims none the less. A real bummer as it took a lot of time to protect the glass and motor to prevent spark and heat damage during the tacking process. It would have bee a lot nicer if it would just bolt in.
The adjustments were being made so the glass would go up without binding. It is amazing but both sides seemed to go down just fine. Binding only seems to occur going up. Strange. Anyway, as the "binds" were almost gone, there was one big one that was driving me nuts. I could not get the adjustment which would allow the window to fully enter the channel at the top. I finally used a marker to see where the problem is. Turns out the back of the window and the front "angled" portion are fully entering the channel over their full length. That means the window is too long. Based on my measurements, about 1/8'' needs to be removed from the angled portion. Guess I call the glass shop on Monday.
Been working on the trailer. Pushing to get done with the ceiling project. Thursday night the new ceiling panels were loosened so Liquid Nails could be applied. The screws were holding fine, but it is now more secure.
The battery had to be replaced in the scoot, so that slowed me down a bit on Friday evening.
Saturday the battery was finally re-installed and the bike started. Hooray!
The lights were finished and the trailer cleaned out. I still need to fix the incorrectly installed break-away brake controller and hook the truck power line up to the battery so it will charge while towing. Before that gets done, the tongue box needs to be installed. Still trying to figure out how to do that. For now, it is good to have the interior lights done and working.
Adjustments were made to the driver's door for the power window. Areas of the door were ''massaged'' with a hammer and dolly until the window went up and down easily. The window garnish molding vibrated while the window went up, letting out a horrendous howl. A little bit of hammer work cured that.
The camera used to shoot this did not have sound, but you get the idea. One down, one to go.
While the car is still in the air I wanted to get the starter cable sorted out. After determining the best route, holes were drilled and tapped. The tank was pulled out once the location of the hole location in the frame was determined. There is an electrical box nut which will be welded to the frame so the nylon strain relief will thread in.
Tore the front end apart again to finish the fan. Took the opportunity to clean the new tranny cooler bracket and give it a quick shot of self etching primer.
Once the core support was on the body panel stand, the radiator was removed and stored. A couple of 1-1/4'' wide strips were cut and then bent to shape. Two rosettes each and a couple of mounting holes and the fan mount is done.