The perimeters of the braces were marked off on the driver's side kick panel. I then sat in the driver's seat and determined the best angle which would allow for leg room and aim. 1/4'' dowels were cut so the ring would be 1-3/4'' raised at the back side. The dimensions were then transferred to the passenger's side panel.
The holes were located and cut. The rings were hot glued in place.
The funnel for my sandblaster was the perfect diameter to mark off the approximate OD of the fleece ''cone.'' The fleece was then stretched and stapled.
In order for the panel to take the shape of the car, originally 5 screws were used to hold the back edge of the panel to the car structure. The top three were replaced with interior panel clips and the screw holes in the A pillar were enlarged to 1/4''. The bottom hole would not allow room to use the interior clip. Then next hole up would have caused interference with the hinge, so it was abandoned. You can see how on the passenger's side it was tried. The bottom screw in photo 5 is only temporary, holding the panel to shape as the resin sets.
Yet to do. One more layer of fiberglass to the back edge to reinforce the interior panel clip holes. Then Bondo and primer.
The 6 x 9 rings were positioned and hot glued in place with 3/16'' dowels. Holes needed to be cut in the luan plywood and the metal. A test fit with the seat back, seat belts, and one speaker gives a hint as to how this is all going to look when done. I'm happy.
The kick panels were started. Before starting, however, big blobs of Liquid Nails had to be scraped off. A mess.
Only one pattern was needed. The right side was cut first. The left side had to have the pattern changed slightly due to a ''bulge'' at the top of the inner panel which allows for e-brake handle mount. I think they both will need to be clamped in place and then dampened in order to better fit the contours.
A paper template of the package shelf was taped together, marked, and cut out.
The package shelf kicks up at the back. A scrap piece of fiberglass panel from the trailer ceiling was used since it had a straight edge and was handy. The measurement was transferred to the luan plywood.
To facilitate the bend in the plywood, a cut was made through 2-1/2 of the 3 layers. A test piece was run to verify the procedure would actually work.
After final trimming, two metal tabs were cut out of 26 ga. coated steel, bent to shape, and epoxied to the package shelf so the front could be secured to the body with 2 screws per tab. The bend received a fiberglass strip to help hold the angle.
The window is on hold for now. The interior needs sorted.
The original rear seat had a huge overhang at the front. The area was blocked off with this panel. The new rear seat has an overhang as well. It is not as deep and the bottom of the seat sits a little lower. So that block off panel needs to be modified.
Before it is modified, it needs to be cleaned up. The vinyl was pulled off. The padding remnant and glue was scraped off. Then it was cleaned with acetone. Finally a nylon abrasive wheel, a DA, and a die grinder cleaned it to the point seen in the final photo. A little hammer and dolly work helped as well.
I knocked some of the crud off the four attachment struts by blasting so they could be cut and welded. It needs to go under the seat next to see how much and where to cut.
Unfortunately, the passenger door did not go as well as the driver door.
One point of contact was identified. The depression up near the mounting location for the door opener was slightly hit every time the window went up and down by the plastic guide on the mechanism. Top circle.
One point of "close to contact" was identified at the original mounting hole for the front track.
The lower mechanism mount was also spaced too far out requiring shims to keep the mechanism in line with the front and rear tracks.
All was cut and welded, eliminating the possibility of contact and hopefully eliminating shims.
That's when it all started to go bad. Even though the lower mount was tacked while bolted to the mechanism with the glass in place, it must have moved during the welding process and will still require shims. Not as many but shims none the less. A real bummer as it took a lot of time to protect the glass and motor to prevent spark and heat damage during the tacking process. It would have bee a lot nicer if it would just bolt in.
The adjustments were being made so the glass would go up without binding. It is amazing but both sides seemed to go down just fine. Binding only seems to occur going up. Strange. Anyway, as the "binds" were almost gone, there was one big one that was driving me nuts. I could not get the adjustment which would allow the window to fully enter the channel at the top. I finally used a marker to see where the problem is. Turns out the back of the window and the front "angled" portion are fully entering the channel over their full length. That means the window is too long. Based on my measurements, about 1/8'' needs to be removed from the angled portion. Guess I call the glass shop on Monday.