O'reilly's sells a double stick foam tape that comes in 8-1/2' x 3/4'' rolls. A package of two goes for $2.29. I had to cut it in half for the light strips, so a single roll handles a roll of lights. It sticks! I think I could have got away without the Romex staples, but I wanted some protection against heat and bad roads. Pulled the nails out of the staples, drilled out the holes with a 1/8'' bit, and used #4 x 3/4'' flat head Phillips sheet metal screws every foot. If it is still tight tomorrow, the next two fiberglass panels go up.
The aluminum panel was made and installed with 3 rocker switches. The switch closest to the door controls the lights down the sides of the ceiling. The middle one is for the center row of lights. The switch farthest from the door is for the door grab light.
By the time I got all this done, it was late. But I did want to get at least one strip of led lights up. Unfortunately, the 3M tape on the back of the lighting I have does not hold up its own weight. 16 feet up and within minutes 16 feet down. Going to try some foam double stick and Romex wire staples (replace the nails with small sheet metal screws). If that doesn't work, on to plan B - Use round fixtures with led lights which screw to the ceiling.
On the plus side, I picked up a couple of 194LL bulbs tonight. After installing one in the door grab I waited until it was dark and tried it. A nice warm glowing grab to the side of the door. Almost made it worth it. Hopefully I will turn the corner on the led strip lighting this week.
Needed to get some things done on the trailer. Thought it would go quick and I could get on the 41. Took all day and I still didn't get it done.
The PO had started wiring the trailer to use it as an RV. I am not going to use it that way, but rather than rip it all out I thought it best to use what I can, modify what can work, and only replace/install the absolute minimum in order to save time and money.
The 2" PVC conduit (overkill for what I am doing but would require significant modification to eliminate it) was too short. A 10' stick was purchased and spliced it. Solid now.
A strain relief for the wires from the battery was installed in the box.
A 50 amp breaker was installed on the battery box.
Terminals were installed in the cabinet so future expansion can be handled. Breakers for the lights and the vent fans were installed as well. The vent fans are now hooked up and work great.
Don was able to come by tonight and weld the pads on. After he left and they cooled the tires were put back on. The tires were chocked and a tape was stretched from tire to tire. Moment of truth. Did it warp the rear? A little less than 1/16'' over nearly a full rotation. No change from before all the work and definitely as good as it gets. Stoked.
Potential for bad weather on Thursday so tomorrow evening will be spent cleaning the garage so the ''normal'' cars won't get hail damage.
Sunday I cleaned the housing a bit. Cut off the existing spring pads and ground the mess smooth. I measured the spring hangers on the car. 47'' centers on the rear and 46.5'' centers on the front. So, I assumed the pads should be 46.75'' on center. The ones that were on there were on 47.25'' centers. I assumed the slop in the holes allowed for it and set the new ones up at 46.75''. When I tried to put the rear in the car to check the pinion angle, it would not line up by 3/4'' on the shackles. I guess the springs camber out in the middle.
So, Monday night I cut the tacks and moved each pad out 3/8'' being careful to maintain the angle. Back to the car. A close inspection of the transmission showed that it points down at about 3-1/2 to 4 degrees. The pinion points up about 1 degree. That puts the pinion down (relative to the trans) 2 to 3 degrees. Couldn't get much better.