The PO of the trailer had attached wood strips to the roof channels and had also installed two 4 x 8 fiberglass panels on the driver's side. To be honest, I would have left the roof alone simply hanging lights to the channels and been done with it. I also would not have glued the carpet to the peg board and plywood on the walls. But since he started it and finishing it looked like less work than trying to remove everything and start over, I installed the two panels on the passenger's side. Ready for lights but I had loaned out my heat gun and won't get it back til Sunday. Still need to decide if I want to put a 4 x 8 panel in the front. We'll see.
Did get to work on the car. The tranny cooler came so I decided to start working on the radiator support and the rest of the structure up there so I can get the cooler and lines finished. My original intent was to use the through the fins plastic mounts for the fans. Then I read horror stories about how they will ''saw'' through the tubes. Decided to go a different way.
Started with the radiator fan. Used four 1/4'' x 3/4'' bolts. Two opposing flats on each bolt head had to be ground slightly in order to drop in the molded boss. A flat washer and a 1/16'' thick rubber washer were slid over the bolt before slipping on the 1 x 1 x 1/16 angle. 1/8'' thick rubber washers will insulate the angle from the radiator. These will have to be trimmed since they have a pretty large OD. The photos show some has been trimmed but not all. Regular nuts are being used for mock-up. Assuming this still allows the fan to clear the front of the engine, nylon locking nuts will be used for final assembly.
O'reilly's sells a double stick foam tape that comes in 8-1/2' x 3/4'' rolls. A package of two goes for $2.29. I had to cut it in half for the light strips, so a single roll handles a roll of lights. It sticks! I think I could have got away without the Romex staples, but I wanted some protection against heat and bad roads. Pulled the nails out of the staples, drilled out the holes with a 1/8'' bit, and used #4 x 3/4'' flat head Phillips sheet metal screws every foot. If it is still tight tomorrow, the next two fiberglass panels go up.
The aluminum panel was made and installed with 3 rocker switches. The switch closest to the door controls the lights down the sides of the ceiling. The middle one is for the center row of lights. The switch farthest from the door is for the door grab light.
By the time I got all this done, it was late. But I did want to get at least one strip of led lights up. Unfortunately, the 3M tape on the back of the lighting I have does not hold up its own weight. 16 feet up and within minutes 16 feet down. Going to try some foam double stick and Romex wire staples (replace the nails with small sheet metal screws). If that doesn't work, on to plan B - Use round fixtures with led lights which screw to the ceiling.
On the plus side, I picked up a couple of 194LL bulbs tonight. After installing one in the door grab I waited until it was dark and tried it. A nice warm glowing grab to the side of the door. Almost made it worth it. Hopefully I will turn the corner on the led strip lighting this week.
Needed to get some things done on the trailer. Thought it would go quick and I could get on the 41. Took all day and I still didn't get it done.
The PO had started wiring the trailer to use it as an RV. I am not going to use it that way, but rather than rip it all out I thought it best to use what I can, modify what can work, and only replace/install the absolute minimum in order to save time and money.
The 2" PVC conduit (overkill for what I am doing but would require significant modification to eliminate it) was too short. A 10' stick was purchased and spliced it. Solid now.
A strain relief for the wires from the battery was installed in the box.
A 50 amp breaker was installed on the battery box.
Terminals were installed in the cabinet so future expansion can be handled. Breakers for the lights and the vent fans were installed as well. The vent fans are now hooked up and work great.