The hood profile was adjusted several times until results were not noticeable. It's not perfect but it will have to do. If I were to cut it and re-weld it, it may get better. Or worse.
After the hinges were attached and adjusted, some of the low spots were hammer and dollied out. This alleviated some of the oil canning. A few shrinks were performed to pull in some of the stretching that has occurred as well as some of the excess metal that resulted from the center line shrink from welding the hood into one piece. I checked it against the good stock hood I have. Both of them have some give and they are about the same. There is a lot of nearly flat real estate here with no internal bracing.
The filler panel between the hood and the grill was cleaned up and a coat of weld through primer was applied. There are 10 diamond shaped holes which were for chrome strips. The 3 large holes were for the ''Chevrolet'' piece of pot metal. Fabbing a filler piece and welding should happen tomorrow.
Time to fine tune the hood. Used some shims to create a 1/8'' gap along the fender top.
There is a brace that bolts in the front portion of the hood. It ties both sided together and also ''seals'' the nose from the engine compartment as it comes down in front of the core support. I believe the back bolt of the hood ornament locked this brace to the center of the hood. A 1/4'' nut was ground and tack welded to the original hole. The brace was then bolted in.
The gap on the left rear trailing edge of the hood was awful. I am not really sure why. I have measured and from every reference point, the front end is centered near perfect. If the hood came from the car, I would be concerned that the fenders, inner fenders, core support, and hood are all equally tweaked. But the hood is from another car and the core support is from yet another car. So the trailing edge was marked, cut and ground back, welded, and ground smooth. It is still tight. Problem is that the inner support is touching the cowl. Getting the contour to match the cowl will help eliminate the contact, but I really can't gain any more gap. I am thinking that the nuts on the left side of the cowl to core support rods will need to be cranked about 1-1/2 turns to move the nose over to the right a bit. That will have to wait til tomorrow. Weather came in so had to make room for the daily driver as we had a chance for hail.
The final shot shows that the hood is starting to look better. Just not there yet.
Got an opportunity to work on the 41 today. Not very long because it is HOT here.
The hood is about 10 inches deep. The shrinker stand would not allow the shrinker to go in that deep. So, a piece of angle iron was clamped to the workbench and the shrinker was bolted to it.
I rigged up a strap and used the engine hoist to hold the hood up and on its side.
After a bit of massaging with the shrinker, the dip in the hood center was brought up. It's not perfect, but it will take less than 1/16'' of filler to make it straight.
Next I need to ''hump'' the back edge on the driver's side so it matches the cowl. It is so hot, I don't want to work in the trailer putting the hood on, checking the progress, pulling the hood off, adjust the edge, and repeat. So I will probably get up early in the morning and pull the car into the shop. The Thunderbird left today so I have some room to work.
Got the grinding on the left side done today. I think it looks good. All the vent holes need now is a little skim coat to smooth things out and put a radius at the corners and they will be ready to paint.
Getting very close to being done with the hood. Just have to use the shrinker to change the slight dip in the center to a slight bulge. A little raising, a little lowering, and then skim. I may do a little weld filling in some of the craters on the center of the nose to reduce the amount of plastic filler. We'll see.