Used the DA to knock the paint of the edges of the door and the door opening. Measured the gaps.
The good news:
The door fits pretty good with the body lines in line. The gaps need some work but quite possibly less than the driver's door.
The bad news:
The cowl bottom is horrible. There is a 3/8'' gap at the fender and the door is about 1/4'' "above" the cowl. After obtaining limited success with the slide hammer (pulling the front out) and the stud welder and slide hammer (pulling the back out), the decision was made to fix it another way.
A quick check with grease on the door frame showed that the weatherstrip missed hitting the body by a very small amount. The rosette was cut out and the cowl was moved about 1/8'' and the rosette was checked again and found to be OK. It did little to fix the door gap.
So I was left with lead or cut and weld. Leading would require at least 1/4'' thick to make the door look right. I opted for cut and weld. Needs some clean up. But it did look good.
Spent a little time after work tonight. Ground the leading edge of the window frame down. The gaps still needs some minor fine tuning but they look great as is.
Decided to tin the quarter window/roof where the drip rail was removed. Tired of cleaning the rust off it. Sanded and wire brushed it. Cleaned it with lacquer thinner. Tinning butter. Heat. Wipe. Clean with lacquer thinner, carb cleaner, and then baking soda/water to remove the flux and neutralize the acid. Ready to lead. Not sure if I am. Maybe Friday night, weather permitting.
Ground the rear door bottom to the tape. Welded the edge. Ground to fit. Also cleaned up some of the bad spots on the rear edge.
Then moved to the front door bottom. There was a lot of material to remove at the front.
Finally started to address the leading edge of the window frame. After thinking about it, I decided that leading the body would be too difficult and that it would be easier to build up the door. I did not have a 1/8''; weld rod that I could find, so I used 3/32''. Got it tacked in place and then welded. I may have to add another piece at the bend as it is just at 3/16''; now. Any grinding will cause too big a gap over a 2 to 3 inch section of the leading edge at the curve. Weather permitting I should have it finished up Wednesday night.
Moving to the top of the door. The gap was basically 1/4" except at the front immediately behind the curve where the front edge "rolls" into the top edge. For about 3 inches just past the curve connecting the front edge to the top edge, the gap was about 9/32".
Since the door only needed 1/16" added to it, I decided to apply weld to the unground edge rather than weld a rod to the top. In hindsight, it might have been better to weld the rod to it. In the end, the gap looks fantastic.
I was originally going to lead the opening at the point where the front window post meets the body line and the rest of the door. After cleaning the opening and trying to figure out how to work and file the lead, I am contemplating welding the door edge instead.
The bottom of the door was marked and taped in preparation for gapping the bottom. I had originally assumed the door would have to be removed. However, since seeing that the front only needs a short section ground and welded while the back requires an even shorter length, I am going to try to perform all the remaining mods while the door is still on the car.