I had 6 items I wanted to get leaded today. I managed to get 2 of them done.
The opening of the EMS roll pan had a much more pronounced radius over the stock opening. I wanted to square them up on the sides to better match the stock opening. I also filled the low spots while I was at it. Hopefully these two areas are the most difficult and time consuming. The first thing that has to be done is grind the protective coating off the panel. The tinning butter won't stick to whatever it is that coats the panels to prevent rust. It is either galvanizing or aluminizing. Regardless, solder just turns brown if there is any left on the panel. After leading and paddling, it is difficult to file due to the taillight mounting area and the compound curves.
I still have the trunk lid, right lower cowl (more surface grinding to get the solder to stick), and both front fender tops.
The trunk lid is gapped. I still need to do some lead work on the trunk and the opening. The trunk weather strip is in place in this photo.
Since I want to get the interior stripped and primed before I put the car on the rotisserie, I decided to lead the drip rail. After a thorough cleaning, the tinning butter was spread, heated, and wiped. Carb cleaner to remove the residue and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Spread the lead. File the lead. Ready for primer.
Mounted the trunk lid. I did not fit at all. One of the first things which needed done was to round the corners off. The original opening was squared off in the corners. The replacement roll pan has rounded corners.
Once it was centered up as good as possible, the sides were marked for grinding. Tacks were put in every two inches. Then the tacks were slowly connected with weld. A little at a time, cooled with a blow gun, jumping around, etc.
Grinding to set the gaps will be next. Then the top and bottom.
Before starting on the trunk lid, I wanted to fix a problem with the fender. My concern was that the fix might throw the trunk lid off, so it needed fixed first.
The left fender fits great. The right one doesn't fit well. The roll pan "kicks out" at about floor level. Some of it could be fixed by moving the fender back a little but that creates new problems at the front. So, I ran a cut up to the floor in the inner wheel housing at the back. A hold down strap was attached to the tail light opening and the rear axle. Cranking the ratchet and heating the inner wheel house pulled it forward just enough. A quick weld and grind job and the fender fits a lot better.
I pulled the trunk lid off the shelf and removed the layers of paint. It is ready for some lead work and then gap fitting.