Extra long weekend since I took vacation Thursday and Friday. Went to an auction yesterday to buy guns and a hemi. Came home without either. Oh well.
This morning I was planning on working on the house siding. Woke up to rain. So, I decided to work on the car instead. It was cool. 59 degrees. I thought the twin halogen work lights would add some warmth, but I knew one of them was burnt out. So, I opened it up in order to fix it. Problem is that when the last bulb failed, it smoked the contact, welding the end of the bulb to it. Need to break down and buy a new one I am afraid.
When I finally started on the fender, I needed to fill some pin holes in the filled hole nearest to the front. Turns out the metal was very fatigued from all the work by the PO and me. I chased cracks and pin holes until I decided to cut a hole and fill it with a piece of sheetmetal. At this point I was wondering if I would ever work on what I set out to do this morning.
The repad was cut out and formed. It was then put in place utilizing 7 rosettes. The flanges were formed. The locations were marked in the same way as the other fender. Then they were welded in place.
The people are the best part of this site. I posted the question as to whether the braces were needed or not as well as my plan on how to use them. 123pugsey not only answered but he made a suggestion I hadn't thought of. He even photo-shopped the suggestion. I was too close to the problem. He was able to see it more clearly than me. Thanks 123pugsey!
Seven holes were drilled in the re-pad. After the weld through primer dried, seven rosettes were put in.
To assure there would be enough meat for the holes and welded on nuts, "skirts" were welded to the end of the brace.
123pugsey's comment was to bring tabs down on the front and back of the brace using bolts installed parallel to the ground. Tabs were fabricated and located with some 18ga. spacers. The spacers simulate the paint so there will be room to assemble it once complete.
The tabs received two rosettes each and a short fillet at the midway point.
I decided to wait until the front end is completely assembled before the holes are drilled and the nuts are welded on.
The fender ornaments were more than jewelry. They covered up the two screws which held the fender to the brace.
Looking left to right on the underside shot, the hole immediately behind the headlight opening was the front orny mount bolt hole. The next one was the center orny mount bolt. The next two were for the fender to brace bolting. Finally on the far right is the rear orny mount bolt hole.
After the bondo was remove; Pits! The neat thing was the fact that the pits were arranged so it almost looked like Damascus steel.
The brace was also blasted.
The holes were fixed inside and out.
The brace was placed on the car. A re-pad was cut and formed from 18 ga. The re-pad will spread the load on the fender.
I could have worked on the doors or the fenders. Still not sure about the doors so I went fenders.
Pulled the left one out of storage. This was the one which still had the brace stuck to it, sort of.
The PO had welded the holes along the lower back. He then covered it with bondo. Based on the back side, I knew it had to be re-done.
The back side cleaned up pretty nice. The outside was another story. Pits! My initial reaction was to cut it out and make a new panel. However, the top of the fender behind the headlight opening had pits as well. My thought process revolved around the notion that if one had to be fixed; might as well fix the both. The flaw in that logic is that the lower panel was something I could replace; the crown of the fender is beyond my skill set After trying to clean up the welds and weld up pin holes and poor penetration, I eventually cut it out and replace it.