Bolted the hood together. Got it all lined up and tightened everything so nothing will move. Used drift punches to center adjacent holes. Once everything was tight, a quick look verified the hood was as good as it was going to get.
The plug welds were put in. Then the bolts were removed one at a time. A copper backing plate was clamped to the flange with Vise Grips and the bolt holes were welded as well.
The rear plate that bolts the two channels together at the back of the hood. A piece of metal was cut to fill the gap at the front of the hood and welded in place.
A strip was cut from 18 ga. and tacked in place in the center of the hood.
At this point, the two piece hood is now for all intents and purposes a one piece hood.
Punched plug weld holes in the flanges, alternating so welds will go in from both sides down the length.
Masked off the hood halves in preparation for weld through primer. Then found out that both cans of weld through primer did not survive the move (or the winter, or the heat, who knows). Mad. Then I found out that the Transtar had gone up about 7 dollars a can. More mad. Then I found out that nobody had any in stock. Even more mad.
Ended up going with an even more expensive primer from a new (to me anyway) manufacturer. Spies Hecker. It's regular primer but the spec sheet says it is good as a weld through.
Decided to let it set up overnight due to the coolness and humidity. Welding should start tomorrow.
The hood was taken apart. The flanges where the hood joins was cleaned. The hood pieces were than taken outside and blasted in the areas where sanding was impractical. The reinforcing plate that joins the hood halves at the back was cleaned and prepped for welding.
Over the weekend, the thought occurred to me that the car is not ready for a rebuilt engine and transmission. The chassis should be assembled so the engine can be started and the transmission checked. In order to do that, the frame and other components need to be powder-coated. There are some holes in the frame which need to be filled. The body has to come off. For the protection of the chassis, the next time the body goes back on should be the last time. That means the underside needs to be prepped and the bed liner sprayed on. The right front fender needs to be cleaned and primed and all the fenders need to be finished at least to the ''ready for high build primer'' state. And, if I am going to be intellectually honest, the hood needs to be done before the fenders. So, I set a goal that by the end of the week hood and right front fender would at least be ready for primer.
Saga of the 1941's hood:
The PO had made the hood one piece. Not sure if it was from the welding or the storage, but the hood flared out bad at the cowl. The filler is also cracking.
Hood number 2 was purchased off fleabay. The bus line it was shipped on managed to lose it.
Hood number 3 was purchased off fleabay. It arrived! Not sure if the dents were in it before or during shipment, but there they were.
Hood number 4 was purchased at a swap meet. It is actually pretty nice.
So, the plan is to modify hood number 3. That way, if I screw it up, I can put hood number 4 on the car as a two piece.
I'm not sure what this hood had on it but, like the underside of the fenders, this stuff just doesn't want to come off. I spent quite a bit of time with the hammer and dolly working on the dents and the grinders and DA removing rust and whatever it is. Weather permitting, I will do some minimal blasting tomorrow and begin the welding process. 50 holes need to be filled. 12 panels need to be made and welded into the side openings. And last, but by no means least, the two halves need to be joined. I am contemplating peaking it as well. I am a glutton for punishment.
With the transmission shopping list complete, attention shifted to the engine.
This was supposed to be a 350 Goodwrench crate engine with 30K - 40K on it. When the intake was pulled, it was evident there was a lot of coked oil on the underside of the head, particularly in the heat riser area. When the timing cover was pulled in order to assure the front of the block was drilled and tapped for the cam plate, it was evident the timing chain had a lot of wear. Those two indicators combined with the fact that this engine has sat for 8 years, lead me to the decision to rebuild. The cylinder walls and bottom end don't look that bad. So I think it was more a matter of long periods of slow driving, idling, and poor maintenance that gave the wore out appearance. I suspect the ''mud'' is still plopping out of the water jackets. What a mess.
Hopefully the block will go to the machine shop next week for cleaning and inspecting. I assume it will still end up 30 over. I already have an Edelbrock 2209 roller along with GM lifters, dog bones, spider, and cam plate. I have pretty much decided on aluminum heads. Nothing radical, just a strong street engine.