Finishing touches were put on the rotisserie. The handle was welded to the other retainer sleeve. 5/16" rods were welded to the lock bolts to allow quick tightening of the bolts when rotating the body.
Rather than trade out the wire spools and weld the lack of fusion on the butt welds, I decided to clean up some previous welds in the limited time available.
Unfortunately, a quick inspection of the floor turned up three more rust-throughs. One was sort of expected. The riser/brace at the front of the back seat had a sketchy area just to the right of the tunnel. Sure enough, there is a hole through the floor in that spot. The unexpected spots are at the ends of the same riser/brace in between the body mount bolt holes. Guess I get to cut them out. Hopefully, I won't find more bad when I cut.
Got out there and hit it hard today. Made the final tweaks to the rear assembly. Added the lock bolt. The rear stand received lock holes at the 45 degree settings. That way I can do the rocker work.
Before the body came off the frame the inside of the battery box received a coat of POR15. No photos. Sorry.
Learned a lot today. I tried to lift the rear of the car first. The frame catches on the roll pan. Filed under "What Not To Do." The engine hoist gets the body in the air easy enough. However, it interferes with the temporary supports and the rotisserie stands. I can work around it for now. However, when the body work is complete and/or there is top coats of paint involved, a better way must be found.
So, the moment of truth arrived. Would the stands hold up? Would the rotisserie rotate? YES! It takes a bit of oomph to get the car rotated to 90 and 180. I knew this going in as the pivot line is above the center of gravity. It had to be done in order to clear the floor and ceiling. The important thing is that I was able to do it alone. If I have help, it should go easy.