The front mount was welded to the floor. The cable housing was cut about an inch longer than needed. I did this because I have to remove the cable from the car one more time and I am sure it will fray. This will allow me to cut it one more time. Of course, it didn't fray tonight. The ferrule wil almost fall off from gravity.
I left the rear cables long so I can cut them to fit during final installation.
There are two more things that need to be done before I put the body on the rotisserie. The wiring harness needs two mounting clamps and the trans tunnel needs to be fit. I started fitting the tunnel tonight. The top needed trimmed a little, so that was done. Then a couple of screws were installed to hold it in place. The plan is to put all the screws in and work it to fit.
Back to work on the e-brake cables. The right side was the tough one due to the need to cross over to the left side of the car, keeping clear of the driveshaft.
A spot was finally selected far to the left which allowed for more gentle curves in the cable housing. The mount needed to be 1 inch lower than the floor due to the floor brace just to the rear of the location. The mount was held in place temporarily until it was certain the cable would fit and function.
The cable was secured with Made 4 You clamps.
The mounting tube had a gusset added to the front of it. The ends were closed off. Finally the finished mount was attached to the floor pan with 4 rosette welds.
The 3/16" line is so much easier to work than the 3/8" line!
The Made 4 You clamps are a little closer together than the fuel line clamps since the 3/16" line is more flexible.
The vibration loop is over the bolt for the inner fender to frame bolt. A socket should go right in and tighten it up.
Once the lines to the wheel cylinders are fabbed, the brake lines are done. Unfortunately, I ran out of line. I need to buy some wheel cylinders. For now, I am moving back to the e-brake cables. The e-brake cables are the last thing I need to do before the body comes back off.
Took a day of vacation to help with the garage sale. Once we got the sale set up and it warmed up a bit, got started on the car.
The factory threaded hole on top of the center section was cleaned out. My original intent was to run the hose out the back of the rearend and up on top of the crossmember. After running the rearend up and down, it became clear that would not work. Sitting the block sideways will complicate the lines to the wheel cylinders, but the overall package will work better.
The line runs up on top of the crossmember and over to the frame rail.