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11-08-2009 08:22 PM Dash - For Real This Time
The cuts were made in the real dash middle part. It was re-installed between the top and bottom sections. There were two bolts which may have interfered with the gauges, so they were test fit on the bench. Sure enough, the speedometer and the oil pressure gauge mounting rings hit the bolt heads. The hex head bolts were removed and replaced with phillips round head bolts which provided enough clearance.

As this installation is intended to finalize all dash related connections, the defroster nozzles were installed and the hoses were cut to fit and installed. The right one was left long to allow adjustments. The left one is in a more congested area, so it was cut with a minimum of excess.

The dash was installed in the car. The clearance between the tachometer and the brake pedal support was checked. It is close, but a little trimming of the support and/or bending the electrical connection tabs on the light sockets will provide enough clearance.

A more critical interference was discovered between the headlight switch and the wiper motor. There is a possibility that cutting a new notch and rotating the switch may fix the problem. At worse, the switch section may need to be cut out and flipped around so the wiper switch is on the left and the headlight switch is on the right. Time will tell.


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  [Entry #295]

11-04-2009 09:32 PM Test Fit Dash
I took the middle section of the dash and the drawing to a laser shop we use at work. They are going to charge me for the programming time. When you consider the amount of tedious hand cutting I would have to do, the price I am paying is a bargain. They cut a test piece for me so we won't mess up the real dash. I test fit everything to night. We are go for the real cut. While the drawing was OK for visualizing what the dash would look like, putting it together like this sealed the deal.


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  [Entry #294]

10-31-2009 10:37 PM Trunk Release
Yesterday I went out to pick up the Custom Autosound Secret Audio SST I ordered. While I was picking it up, I also picked up an actuator for the trunk release. I installed it today.

The location was determined and the hole was cut. The holes in the actuator were reamed out to accept an 8-32 machine screw. After drilling holes in the channel, the unit was installed. The actuator rod was cut to length and bent to hook up to the latch. The hole in the latch had to be slightly enlarged.

The strap from the installation kit was used to tie the top together as the unit is bolted down. A small bracket for the cable release was also fabbed and installed.

A hole was drilled in the tailpan for the cable to pass through. For now a spark plug wire loom grommett is used. I may have to go larger. Time will tell.

The good news is that both the mechanical and electric units work. The bad news is that the latch spring does not have enough to push the trunk. I am looking at gas charged cylinder.

Things left to do on the trunk latch. Route wiring through tailpan. Do some more English wheel on the cover. The cover hits the the nuts and cable bracket. I started putting a "bump" in the cover so it would clear the nuts. A little bit more wheeling and a flange lip around the opening to clear it should get the job done.




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  [Entry #293]

10-27-2009 08:27 PM Trunk Release Cable
With the headliner pulled back and the old wiring removed, it was fairly easy to thread the trunk release cable up through the a-pillar. Once up to the roof, it was almost a straight shot to the trunk. Not sure what I am going to do once I fit the wiring, but for now, I clipped the cable in place using the stock wiring clips.

The cable drops down along the side of the package shelf into the trunk. It will attach to the wheel tub with clips and enter the rear channel through a hole with a rubber grommet in the left rear corner.

The Custom Autosounds SecretAudio SST is supposed to be in Thursday. I will probably pick up a solenoid for the trunk release then. I am hoping the solenoid and the bracket for the cable end will fit in the channel through and access panel about where the blue box is drawn.


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  [Entry #292]

10-27-2009 08:15 PM Odds and Ends
I really didn't feel like working after work today. But I hate to lose a nice, warm day in October, so I made myself go out and do a few odds and ends. Sorta therapeutic.

The Borgeson u-joints came in late last week. I had measured the shaft on the MII unit fairly easily. Counting the number of splines was a little more difficult. Anyway, I wanted to verify the fit of the new joint. Works great. I should have steering by maybe the end of the upcoming weekend.

I also want to route the trunk release cable and the wiring harness through the roof channel on the driver's side. This is where the factory ran it in 41. So, I pulled the headliner off the tack strips. The guy who stapled it in must have subscribed to the "if some is good, more is better, and too much is just enough" philosophy. There was a ton of staples. Anyway, once removed, I pulled the old, cloth covered wiring out. What a dusty, brittle mess.

The trunk lid striker needed a spacer made. Due to the way the trunk lid closes, having the washer at the end of the stock shoulder would result in the washer dragging on the latch cover when opening and closing. I made a short spacer out of 1/2" stainless steel tube. I have some other tweaks to finish before I box in the hole in the trunk inner structure.


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  [Entry #291]

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