The headlight buckets needed to be modified to accommodate the AutoLoc tri-bar with built in turn signal headlights.
The inner bucket required the hole at the back be opened up to allow the larger boss and cover to slide through. A hole had to be opened up at the bottom of the inner bucket for the turn signal boss and wires.
The outer bucket was dimpled to provide clearance for the turn signal wires.
I still have to determine how to pass the turn signal wires through the outer bucket.
The radiator support and inner fenders were reinstalled. The 10 ga. wire was finished hooking the alternator to the circuit breaker bank which feeds the fans, hi beams, lo beams, and horn. The 8 ga. wire was finished connecting the alternator to the bulkhead connector on the firewall. I assumed the wire would fit in a 3/8" or 1/2" cover, so I didn't buy mounting clamps for the 3/4". I am getting real close to having the forward wiring harness complete.
It is still tight, but at least it clears. I may move the steering column a little bit toward the front of the car to center the joint around the bend in the header. A clearance notch needs to be made for the shaft where it passes under the mount. With the engine moved, I can get back to running wires. I wanted to have the engine located so the wires would not be too short.
Yesterday evening the front sheetmetal came off. As noted back in entry # 297, the steering shaft hit the header. The engine needed to be moved to the right. The engine was pulled and the mounts cut off. The right mount was cut. The piece cut off the brace was welded to the left mount. I was shooting for a 1/2" move. It ended up being between 3/8" and 1/2". You can't tell from the photo, but the engine has been moved.
I am a little annoyed at my Street Rod Wiring harness. I didn't want the park, tail, and dash lights with their 18 gauge wires being protected by a 30 amp fuse. So instead of running a jumper from the head lights to the tail light terminal, I took the clock wire and ran it to power the park, tail, and dash lights. I am not going to have a clock, so I didn't need a dedicated circuit tied up powering nothing. It wasn't until after I had it all hooked up that I noticed the clock was wired to the accessory circuit. So was the dome light circuit. Come on! Who turns the key to ACC or ON before the clock or the dome light works? ! ? Anyway, I finally decided to cut the loop, move the brown accessory wire over, and run a red wire which will go to main power so these two circuits will be hot all the time.