It is still tight, but at least it clears. I may move the steering column a little bit toward the front of the car to center the joint around the bend in the header. A clearance notch needs to be made for the shaft where it passes under the mount. With the engine moved, I can get back to running wires. I wanted to have the engine located so the wires would not be too short.
Yesterday evening the front sheetmetal came off. As noted back in entry # 297, the steering shaft hit the header. The engine needed to be moved to the right. The engine was pulled and the mounts cut off. The right mount was cut. The piece cut off the brace was welded to the left mount. I was shooting for a 1/2" move. It ended up being between 3/8" and 1/2". You can't tell from the photo, but the engine has been moved.
I am a little annoyed at my Street Rod Wiring harness. I didn't want the park, tail, and dash lights with their 18 gauge wires being protected by a 30 amp fuse. So instead of running a jumper from the head lights to the tail light terminal, I took the clock wire and ran it to power the park, tail, and dash lights. I am not going to have a clock, so I didn't need a dedicated circuit tied up powering nothing. It wasn't until after I had it all hooked up that I noticed the clock was wired to the accessory circuit. So was the dome light circuit. Come on! Who turns the key to ACC or ON before the clock or the dome light works? ! ? Anyway, I finally decided to cut the loop, move the brown accessory wire over, and run a red wire which will go to main power so these two circuits will be hot all the time.
I test fit the relays and the power steering reservoir to see where they fit the best. Then the front fender came off and the inner fender went on the panel stand. With the parts positioned, the holes were drilled and the parts mounted. Some of the wiring was done. Need to get more butt connectors. Rear relay will be for the fans. Moving forward, the low beams, the high beams, and, at the front, the horn.
It was hot Saturday. Rough day to jump into working on the car for the first time in the garage. Cut the hole for the bulkhead connector in the firewall. It is located under the hood hinge bracket in order to minimize its impact on the under hood area. The 3/8" insulated lug was also installed. My AC guy came by and will be ordering parts. Receiver/dryer, trinary switch, and bulkhead connector for the AC/heater hoses. Not shown, I pulled most of the wires through the bulkhead connector and marked them. Then I was able to bring the harness into the house. That allowed me to assemble the wires with the terminals in the comfort of AC.