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08-15-2009 07:06 PM Drip Rail and Door
If you look close, you can see green lines and numbers on the roof. I marked off inches so I could keep track of the incremental welds. I would weld about a 1/2" and then skip 4" and weld another 1/2".

When I got all the way from one end to the other this way, I worked my way back to the start by welding every other trim hole around the window. These holes had been welded before, but there were a lot of holes in the welds.

When I had a series of 1/2" long welds (approximate) with 1/2" spaces between them, I ground.

Once the grinding was done, the remaining welds were put in using the same staggering technique. All the holes around the window were finished as well.

Final grinding was done and this side is ready for lead (or cold filler if I lose my nerve.

I moved up to the door. This is going to be the only panel where I am not removing at least some of the weld boogers and mig wire spiders on the inside. I just can't get in there to grind them down.

The lower row is done. The second row has the first welds done which still need to be ground. The holes around the window still need to be started.


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  [Entry #247]

08-15-2009 06:55 PM Drip Rail
The AC unit didn't arrive.

The brake pedal didn't get welded. (It did get cut and tacked so I could double check the fit. A couple of tweaks were needed. It will get welded Monday.)

So, I decided to tackle the driver's side metal work that still needs to be done.

I started by cutting the drip rail off. I learned some stuff from having done the passenger side previously.

After cutting the section over the quarter window with a hack saw, I drilled the spot welds on the section over the door and removed the old drip rail.

A hammer and chisel were used to remove the remnant of the bend so the piece of the drip rail sandwiched between the roof and the side ended up close to flat and centered in the sandwich.

After doing the hammer and chisel work over the whole length, I cut and ground it down flush with the roof and the side using a hack saw and the grinder.

Finally, I used a cut off wheel to countersink the remnant of the drip rail. This removed a lot of the rust close to the weld. The biggest problem I had with the other side was drawing contamination into the weld.


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  [Entry #246]

08-12-2009 09:37 PM Coming Together
The AC unit is on order and may be here by week's end. The under dash area needs to be ready for the fitting.

The relief for the brake support was cut in the dash as well as a relief for the hood/trunk release.

The cross tube was put back in. The booster/MC/pedal was re-installed. The pivot for the booster clevis needed to be moved toward the rear of the car so the pivot point would cross center at about mid-travel from rest to the floor. This raises the pedal to an awkward position. My first thought was to make two pie cuts and then weld the pedal back together. After thinking about it, I think we can make to cuts, flip the piece around, and then weld it together. This will reduce the amount the pedal will be shortened. The angles are different so the pedal will rotate to the firewall and simultaneously move toward the firewall.


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  [Entry #245]

08-09-2009 01:33 PM Hood and Trunk Release
I built a bracket to mount the Lokar hood and trunk release. Actually, I built it twice. The first time I had the bracket centered in the mount. The parking brake handle hit the levers, so I had to move it off to the side.

The AC unit gets ordered tomorrow. The dash / under dash is starting to come together.


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  [Entry #244]

08-04-2009 07:15 PM E-Brake and Misc.
Monday night I drilled the new holes for the driver's seat. Still not sure it is final. Looked at what it would take to mount the passenger seat. Decided to think about it before any more hole drilling.

When I test fit the parking brake handle previously, it only traveled about 1/4 of its available travel before hitting the dash. The original dash must have had a relief or was mounted so that this area was closer to the rear of the car.

In order to compensate, two new holes were drilled allowing the handle to rotate toward the firewall. Of course, this also lowered the moving parts. So, now instead of the handle hitting the dash, the cable attachment hit the cross tube. A relief was ground for clearance. I may reinforce the new hole later. To be honest, the cross tube is still very stout.


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  [Entry #243]

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