I took the middle section of the dash and the drawing to a laser shop we use at work. They are going to charge me for the programming time. When you consider the amount of tedious hand cutting I would have to do, the price I am paying is a bargain. They cut a test piece for me so we won't mess up the real dash. I test fit everything to night. We are go for the real cut. While the drawing was OK for visualizing what the dash would look like, putting it together like this sealed the deal.
Yesterday I went out to pick up the Custom Autosound Secret Audio SST I ordered. While I was picking it up, I also picked up an actuator for the trunk release. I installed it today.
The location was determined and the hole was cut. The holes in the actuator were reamed out to accept an 8-32 machine screw. After drilling holes in the channel, the unit was installed. The actuator rod was cut to length and bent to hook up to the latch. The hole in the latch had to be slightly enlarged.
The strap from the installation kit was used to tie the top together as the unit is bolted down. A small bracket for the cable release was also fabbed and installed.
A hole was drilled in the tailpan for the cable to pass through. For now a spark plug wire loom grommett is used. I may have to go larger. Time will tell.
The good news is that both the mechanical and electric units work. The bad news is that the latch spring does not have enough to push the trunk. I am looking at gas charged cylinder.
Things left to do on the trunk latch. Route wiring through tailpan. Do some more English wheel on the cover. The cover hits the the nuts and cable bracket. I started putting a "bump" in the cover so it would clear the nuts. A little bit more wheeling and a flange lip around the opening to clear it should get the job done.
With the headliner pulled back and the old wiring removed, it was fairly easy to thread the trunk release cable up through the a-pillar. Once up to the roof, it was almost a straight shot to the trunk. Not sure what I am going to do once I fit the wiring, but for now, I clipped the cable in place using the stock wiring clips.
The cable drops down along the side of the package shelf into the trunk. It will attach to the wheel tub with clips and enter the rear channel through a hole with a rubber grommet in the left rear corner.
The Custom Autosounds SecretAudio SST is supposed to be in Thursday. I will probably pick up a solenoid for the trunk release then. I am hoping the solenoid and the bracket for the cable end will fit in the channel through and access panel about where the blue box is drawn.
I really didn't feel like working after work today. But I hate to lose a nice, warm day in October, so I made myself go out and do a few odds and ends. Sorta therapeutic.
The Borgeson u-joints came in late last week. I had measured the shaft on the MII unit fairly easily. Counting the number of splines was a little more difficult. Anyway, I wanted to verify the fit of the new joint. Works great. I should have steering by maybe the end of the upcoming weekend.
I also want to route the trunk release cable and the wiring harness through the roof channel on the driver's side. This is where the factory ran it in 41. So, I pulled the headliner off the tack strips. The guy who stapled it in must have subscribed to the "if some is good, more is better, and too much is just enough" philosophy. There was a ton of staples. Anyway, once removed, I pulled the old, cloth covered wiring out. What a dusty, brittle mess.
The trunk lid striker needed a spacer made. Due to the way the trunk lid closes, having the washer at the end of the stock shoulder would result in the washer dragging on the latch cover when opening and closing. I made a short spacer out of 1/2" stainless steel tube. I have some other tweaks to finish before I box in the hole in the trunk inner structure.
With the latch attached to the floor, it was time to work on the trunk lid portion of the assembly.
The trunk lid needed a portion of the inner structure cut away to clear the latch and cover on the trunk floor. Once the cuts were made so the trunk lid would close all the way, the location of the striker was established and hole was drilled in the inner frame sheet metal. After a great deal of trial and error, a nut was welded to the sheet metal. At last, the trunk closed and latched. Now that the location is known, the opening will be boxed in and a permanent nut will be welded in place.
The good news is that the striker barely extends past the inner surface of the inner panel of the trunk lid. No where close to the tail hook I would have had to build for the other style latch. I fell a lot better about this arrangement over what I had previously put in.