The mounting holes for the front channel needs to be 11 inches forward of the stock location. With the location known, a measurement was taken and the stock channel was marked where the cut needed to be made. Some trimming to it and the extension had to be made. Next will be the lower mount and trimming the hinge plate cover and the door strap pocket.
The straight line window sill was skip welded into place. Weld, grind, repeat.
The remainder of the trim holes were finish welded. Two of the top trim holes had never been welded. There were also two more which I popped the "weld" out of with a small screwdriver. I cut four filler pieces of metal for these four holes. Weld, grind, repeat.
Once all of the exterior welding and grinding was complete, to try and fix the window frame so it better fit the opening. With the door closed and the belt line flush, the top and bottom of the door protruded from the side of the car. I used a chain and a ratcheting cargo strap along with some wood to pull the top and bottom in. The area which needed to shrink was hit with a hammer to relieve stress as the strap was pulled tight. The end result is pretty close. I figure I will need to do this one more time after the door relaxes for a while.
The low spots will also need to be hit with the stud welder and slide hammer.
The driver's door is so much easier than the passenger door. Since the passenger door was done first, all that is required is measuring the passenger door and marking the driver door. The angle was fit, the window sill was cut, and the angle was welded in. This is so the "dip" in the sill where the vent used to be is replaced with a straight line window sill.
The brake pedal was cut apart. Then it was welded back together and ground smooth. Finally, a reinforcing rib was welded on. It needs a new bushing built since the one that came with it is very wobbly. Powder coat and it will be ready to roll. Difficult to see, but the clevis now passes center after the pedal is half way to the floor.