Since the AC unit was not going to be finalized, I decided to finish the hood release cable. Tuesday night the engine was put back in the car and the front sheet metal was assembled. This was done primarily to verify the AC and heater hoses locations. I put a couple of cable clamps on the left fender to position the cable. When complete, there will be at least 3 more, maybe 4. A bracket was made from 14 ga. sheet and attached where the stock cable clamp used to hold the factory cable. I find it fascinating that these cars had inside hood releases from the factory. The cable and housing were cut to length and assembled. The hood latch was adjusted so the hood would close and latch. It all works!
Saturday, the brake pedal support was cut to remove the last bolt hole which was not needed. The support and wiper motor were installed. The AC unit was put in place, held by c-clamps and vise grips. I was hoping the sales guy would come out tonight to verify it was in a good spot. Unfortunately, he was not able to make it. At issue is whether the heater control valve, receiver/dryer, AC hoses, heater hoses, and the right side duct will all fit in the space shown. I fairly certain it will all fit provide hoses can be made which will provide the correct angles. Hopefully he will be able to make it on Friday to take a look at it.
In one of the photos you can see the brackets which were cut out and bent tonight. Once the final location is determined, these will have holes drilled in the and they will be welded to the cross tube. They will replace the flimsy multi-hole pieces which were used temporarily.
I started by measuring and cutting the relief for the accelerator. It wasn't clear where the top needed to be and, as a result, the opening for the pedal mount ended up a little bigger than desired. This will require some thought as to what to do, if anything.
There also had to be a relief for the e-brake tube.
Once the pad fit the firewall, holes were drilled for the mounting. There were seven holes in the firewall which I assumed were for the mounting clips. The holes for the brake booster mount, the radiator support rod, and the accelerator cable were also drilled.
The radiator support rod holes had a washer placed over them and the outline was put on with a Sharpie. The openings were then cut with a saber saw to clearance for installation of the rod.
The holes in the corners of the accelerator cable opening were connected with cuts.
The brake pedal mount was placed over the bolt holes. The outline was traced with a Sharpie and then cut so the assembly would mount directly on the inside of the firewall.
The seven mounting bolts had their heads tack welded to the inside of the firewall. Then the heads were rosette welded to the outside of the firewall. The rosettes were ground flush so that no indication of the mounting will be seen in the engine compartment.
The brake pedal mount was cut so that it no longer extends one bolt hole too many toward the rear of the car. This will open up space needed for the gauges.
The pad was bolted into place using fender washers and nuts. At final assembly, the bright fender washers will be replaced with flat black fender washers. The mounting bolts will be cut to length. Acorn nuts will finish it off.
I did set the Vintage Air unit back in place. The salesman where I bought it said he might be able to come over and critique the installation location. I think I will take him up on it.
I weighed using a grommet to pass the e-brake cable through the firewall. I decided that since it was on an angle, it probably would cause the grommet to leak at best, pop out at worst. I decided to use a piece of 1/2" steel tube. After a little welding, grinding, and filing, the cable was passed through for a test fit. When final assembly rolls around, a little sealer on the outside of the cable on the last half inch or so before it is fully inserted will assure a weather tight sea.