The brake pedal didn't get welded. (It did get cut and tacked so I could double check the fit. A couple of tweaks were needed. It will get welded Monday.)
So, I decided to tackle the driver's side metal work that still needs to be done.
I started by cutting the drip rail off. I learned some stuff from having done the passenger side previously.
After cutting the section over the quarter window with a hack saw, I drilled the spot welds on the section over the door and removed the old drip rail.
A hammer and chisel were used to remove the remnant of the bend so the piece of the drip rail sandwiched between the roof and the side ended up close to flat and centered in the sandwich.
After doing the hammer and chisel work over the whole length, I cut and ground it down flush with the roof and the side using a hack saw and the grinder.
Finally, I used a cut off wheel to countersink the remnant of the drip rail. This removed a lot of the rust close to the weld. The biggest problem I had with the other side was drawing contamination into the weld.
The AC unit is on order and may be here by week's end. The under dash area needs to be ready for the fitting.
The relief for the brake support was cut in the dash as well as a relief for the hood/trunk release.
The cross tube was put back in. The booster/MC/pedal was re-installed. The pivot for the booster clevis needed to be moved toward the rear of the car so the pivot point would cross center at about mid-travel from rest to the floor. This raises the pedal to an awkward position. My first thought was to make two pie cuts and then weld the pedal back together. After thinking about it, I think we can make to cuts, flip the piece around, and then weld it together. This will reduce the amount the pedal will be shortened. The angles are different so the pedal will rotate to the firewall and simultaneously move toward the firewall.
I built a bracket to mount the Lokar hood and trunk release. Actually, I built it twice. The first time I had the bracket centered in the mount. The parking brake handle hit the levers, so I had to move it off to the side.
The AC unit gets ordered tomorrow. The dash / under dash is starting to come together.
Monday night I drilled the new holes for the driver's seat. Still not sure it is final. Looked at what it would take to mount the passenger seat. Decided to think about it before any more hole drilling.
When I test fit the parking brake handle previously, it only traveled about 1/4 of its available travel before hitting the dash. The original dash must have had a relief or was mounted so that this area was closer to the rear of the car.
In order to compensate, two new holes were drilled allowing the handle to rotate toward the firewall. Of course, this also lowered the moving parts. So, now instead of the handle hitting the dash, the cable attachment hit the cross tube. A relief was ground for clearance. I may reinforce the new hole later. To be honest, the cross tube is still very stout.
The pie cuts that had to be made in the middle section of the dash were welded up. I didn't grind them yet. I was tired of grinding welds. It will be there the next time I work on the car.
As with everything on this car, two steps forward and one step back. The brake pedal mount interferes with the lip on the bottom of the dash. The section between the black lines will have to be cut and removed.