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View redsdad's profile Entries: 599
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06-12-2009 06:25 AM Power Window
I am still apprehensive about the interior. Everything is going to fit so tight that I am concerned about what will happen if something is bigger than I expect.

I decided I really needed to at least get the doors finalized. Looking back to entry #16, an attempt was made to modify the passenger door to get the window to go up and down correctly. Hard to believe that was over 2 years ago.

Looking at it with a fresh eye, I noticed some other things which may be causing the problems.

There was a "pinch" at the very rear of the window slot. I opened this up about 1/8" with a slide hammer.

The channel from the power window unit still hit the inside of the door even after the heat and beat session. I am concerned this was putting a slight "bow" in the channel, causing the window to roll in while going up. I have decided this needs to be cut and re-contoured.

By the weekend I should have the interior panel cut and welded back together. The lower mount should be welded in at the same time.

I also will need to do some work to the front channel and the hinge mount.


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  [Entry #214]

06-06-2009 10:25 PM Fitting the Colum
Things started grinding to a halt once the column fitting started.

First, the column drop, although it is made for a GM column, did not have a relief for the cruise control wiring. Since I am hoping to incorporate cruise in the car, I wanted to keep the wiring as is, at least for now. So I had to open up the wiring harness relief in the drop until it also cleared the cruise wiring.

Then I determined that the plastic sleeve extension on the shifter collar needed to lose 3 inches so the drop could be mounted closer to the steering wheel. Cutting it was easy. Cutting it straight without cutting through the wiring harness was another matter. I got it close enough that a little filing will make it look factory.

With the drop in the new location, the dimmer switch linkage interfered with the drop. Of course! After a little tweaking of the rod and filing of the drop, the drop mounted to the column and the dimmer switch functions fine.

Alas, I ran out of day before I ran out of steering column install activities. The next time I get to work on it should see the column installed. If it doesn't go in next time, I may be looking at an ididit or Flaming River unit.


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  [Entry #213]

06-06-2009 10:12 PM Prepping for the Steering Column
I got an indication the seat may not be in exactly the right location. The good news is that it is probably close enough to proceed. Once I get the column installed, I will review the feel. This is where I have problems with the interior. I am used to solids which are easy to measure. Seats are soft, irregular, and hard to measure.

I held a straight edge over the center row of buttons on the seat bottom. Dropping a plumb bob from the straight edge in two locations yielded the green line which, in the photo, is lower on the left than on the right. The other green line is parallel to the center line.

Then I sat in the seat while holding a steering wheel with the plumb bob through the center hole. Surprise, surprise. The bob consistently hit close to the period after the H. I settled on putting the red line just to the side of the H, parallel to the center line of the car.

Carrying the new column center line up the toe board showed that the lower column mount hole needed to move outboard 2-1/4".

I also removed the pockets where the brake pedal and the clutch pedal came through the floor. Look at all the crud these pockets held, now accumulated on the floor.

After cutting out the lower mount hole and moving it outboard, a filler was cut to fill the gaping hole. Everything is tacked for now in case I have to move them later.



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  [Entry #212]

06-06-2009 09:57 PM Passenger Seat
I am not sure what the floor was like on the car these seats came out of, but it must have been a real mountain range. The right rear support is a real monolith. After measuring, it was a apparent an inch had to go. After cutting it, the tab needed to go. It originally mounted the wiring harness. That's OK because it needs to be rerouted anyway. After welding, the seat fit a lot better. It still needs a lot of work before mounting, but at least I know the driver's seat will not have to move because of the passenger seat.


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  [Entry #211]

06-06-2009 09:49 PM Back At It
Well, the 2009 family vacation is in the history books. Flew to Phoenix via Dallas. Put over 1800 miles on the rental car over 8 days. We visited with friends that moved to Gilbert years ago. We don't get to see them often, so it was great to spend a day visiting with them and their family. Saw the Grand Canyon, Petrified Forest/Painted Desert, Meteor Crater, Flagstaff, Sedona, and met a real interesting WW II war hero.

So, back on the 41. To be honest, I was a bit apprehensive about the interior. All my previous cars had basically stock interiors. The exception was my drag car. Of course, the drag car only needed to be functional for limited periods of time. If I get the driver's seat, steering wheel, and pedals wrong, it will mean misery for miles on these OK roads. If I get the passenger seat wrong, it will be worse!

Anyway, with the seat in the mid position of all adjustments, I centered the seat and marked the mounting positions. After marking them, I removed the seat. It was then that I realized the holes would have gone into the floor braced. I moved them forward about 3/4". The green squares are the original marks and the red X's are the locations to be drilled.

Three of the four mounts rest on the floor. The left front will need some spacers. For now, I stacked washers. A quick test sit and it feels good.

I decided to test the passenger seat before proceeding. It ended up sitting high and leaning toward the center of the car.



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  [Entry #210]

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