The brake pedal was cut apart. Then it was welded back together and ground smooth. Finally, a reinforcing rib was welded on. It needs a new bushing built since the one that came with it is very wobbly. Powder coat and it will be ready to roll. Difficult to see, but the clevis now passes center after the pedal is half way to the floor.
Picked up the AC unit on Monday. Had a honey-do to take care of on Tuesday. Got to do the first trial fit today.
I used the mounting straps that came with the condenser to make some quick and dirty brackets for the h/a/d unit. I will replace them with something a little stouter when I am sure where the unit will end up.
As it sits, it is looking pretty good. There is enough clearance for the firewall pad and cover. I should be able to install the receiver/dryer and the water control valve on the passenger side and still get the hoses to either an in-line or square bulkhead connector on the firewall.
Problem areas. I am going to have to get the wiper motor to be sure I have clearance. Going to order it tomorrow. I don't think there will be room for a stereo unless I come up with something to space it out from the dash. I am thinking more about building a mounting pod on the bottom of the dash and putting it there. I'll have to work that out.
If you look close, you can see green lines and numbers on the roof. I marked off inches so I could keep track of the incremental welds. I would weld about a 1/2" and then skip 4" and weld another 1/2".
When I got all the way from one end to the other this way, I worked my way back to the start by welding every other trim hole around the window. These holes had been welded before, but there were a lot of holes in the welds.
When I had a series of 1/2" long welds (approximate) with 1/2" spaces between them, I ground.
Once the grinding was done, the remaining welds were put in using the same staggering technique. All the holes around the window were finished as well.
Final grinding was done and this side is ready for lead (or cold filler if I lose my nerve.
I moved up to the door. This is going to be the only panel where I am not removing at least some of the weld boogers and mig wire spiders on the inside. I just can't get in there to grind them down.
The lower row is done. The second row has the first welds done which still need to be ground. The holes around the window still need to be started.
The brake pedal didn't get welded. (It did get cut and tacked so I could double check the fit. A couple of tweaks were needed. It will get welded Monday.)
So, I decided to tackle the driver's side metal work that still needs to be done.
I started by cutting the drip rail off. I learned some stuff from having done the passenger side previously.
After cutting the section over the quarter window with a hack saw, I drilled the spot welds on the section over the door and removed the old drip rail.
A hammer and chisel were used to remove the remnant of the bend so the piece of the drip rail sandwiched between the roof and the side ended up close to flat and centered in the sandwich.
After doing the hammer and chisel work over the whole length, I cut and ground it down flush with the roof and the side using a hack saw and the grinder.
Finally, I used a cut off wheel to countersink the remnant of the drip rail. This removed a lot of the rust close to the weld. The biggest problem I had with the other side was drawing contamination into the weld.
The AC unit is on order and may be here by week's end. The under dash area needs to be ready for the fitting.
The relief for the brake support was cut in the dash as well as a relief for the hood/trunk release.
The cross tube was put back in. The booster/MC/pedal was re-installed. The pivot for the booster clevis needed to be moved toward the rear of the car so the pivot point would cross center at about mid-travel from rest to the floor. This raises the pedal to an awkward position. My first thought was to make two pie cuts and then weld the pedal back together. After thinking about it, I think we can make to cuts, flip the piece around, and then weld it together. This will reduce the amount the pedal will be shortened. The angles are different so the pedal will rotate to the firewall and simultaneously move toward the firewall.