After the core support was modified and the tubes were tweaked, the final location was determined.
The Vintage Air condenser comes with some metal straps. I felt they looked too much like plumber's iron. I cut some tabs out of sheet metal. Using the 1/4" joggle rollers on my bead roller, I made the step in all the supports. There are four, two long and two short. I am showing 1 of each in the photo.
The heat and humidity got to me. I called it a day.
Since it will be next week before the column floor mount arrives, attention was turned to the radiator support again.
The Vintage Air condenser was placed on the radiator to see where it would fit best. Notice the radiator is protected by the cardboard which the condenser was attached to for shipping. The condenser will fit best with its bottom even with the bottom of the radiator core. It will be shifted about a half inch to the driver's side in order to accommodate the tubes.
The bottom of the core support required a heat, beat, and cut session to clear the tubes.
Two steps forward and one step back. Or is it one step forward and two steps back?
I bought the drop and the lower mount at the same time. They were both for a 2-1/4" column. Since the drop fit, I didn't check the lower mount. I should have. I didn't notice that the column drops to 2" before it gets to the floor. So, I need to get a different floor mount. I am working on it.
Anyway, I filed and ground and bent and twisted the dimmer switch rod and the drop until the drop was close to the shift collar. Now I just have to wait until the floor mount gets here and I can get the column installed.
Front channel adjustments were performed. The pocket for the door stop was trimmed back to allow the channel to move closer to the interior side. The channel was trimmed a little bit to clear the hinge bolt plate. Basically, the channel is now adjusted as close to the interior as possible without major surgery.
The depression between the arm rest mounts was cut free from the door and repositioned level with the arm rest mounts. This allowed the mechanism to be parallel with the front and back channels. The lower mount was then welded in so the bottom was even with the interior panel of the door and the top extends out even with the arm rest mounts.
The bead was cut to clear the spring cable cover on the bottom and the motor on the side. I have several filler pieces to fit and weld in.
My friend Dane came over and helped me install and check the glass as it rolled up and down. It is close, but will still need some fine tuning.
I think I can safely return to the column installation.
I am still apprehensive about the interior. Everything is going to fit so tight that I am concerned about what will happen if something is bigger than I expect.
I decided I really needed to at least get the doors finalized. Looking back to entry #16, an attempt was made to modify the passenger door to get the window to go up and down correctly. Hard to believe that was over 2 years ago.
Looking at it with a fresh eye, I noticed some other things which may be causing the problems.
There was a "pinch" at the very rear of the window slot. I opened this up about 1/8" with a slide hammer.
The channel from the power window unit still hit the inside of the door even after the heat and beat session. I am concerned this was putting a slight "bow" in the channel, causing the window to roll in while going up. I have decided this needs to be cut and re-contoured.
By the weekend I should have the interior panel cut and welded back together. The lower mount should be welded in at the same time.
I also will need to do some work to the front channel and the hinge mount.