Two steps forward and one step back. Or is it one step forward and two steps back?
I bought the drop and the lower mount at the same time. They were both for a 2-1/4" column. Since the drop fit, I didn't check the lower mount. I should have. I didn't notice that the column drops to 2" before it gets to the floor. So, I need to get a different floor mount. I am working on it.
Anyway, I filed and ground and bent and twisted the dimmer switch rod and the drop until the drop was close to the shift collar. Now I just have to wait until the floor mount gets here and I can get the column installed.
Front channel adjustments were performed. The pocket for the door stop was trimmed back to allow the channel to move closer to the interior side. The channel was trimmed a little bit to clear the hinge bolt plate. Basically, the channel is now adjusted as close to the interior as possible without major surgery.
The depression between the arm rest mounts was cut free from the door and repositioned level with the arm rest mounts. This allowed the mechanism to be parallel with the front and back channels. The lower mount was then welded in so the bottom was even with the interior panel of the door and the top extends out even with the arm rest mounts.
The bead was cut to clear the spring cable cover on the bottom and the motor on the side. I have several filler pieces to fit and weld in.
My friend Dane came over and helped me install and check the glass as it rolled up and down. It is close, but will still need some fine tuning.
I think I can safely return to the column installation.
I am still apprehensive about the interior. Everything is going to fit so tight that I am concerned about what will happen if something is bigger than I expect.
I decided I really needed to at least get the doors finalized. Looking back to entry #16, an attempt was made to modify the passenger door to get the window to go up and down correctly. Hard to believe that was over 2 years ago.
Looking at it with a fresh eye, I noticed some other things which may be causing the problems.
There was a "pinch" at the very rear of the window slot. I opened this up about 1/8" with a slide hammer.
The channel from the power window unit still hit the inside of the door even after the heat and beat session. I am concerned this was putting a slight "bow" in the channel, causing the window to roll in while going up. I have decided this needs to be cut and re-contoured.
By the weekend I should have the interior panel cut and welded back together. The lower mount should be welded in at the same time.
I also will need to do some work to the front channel and the hinge mount.
Things started grinding to a halt once the column fitting started.
First, the column drop, although it is made for a GM column, did not have a relief for the cruise control wiring. Since I am hoping to incorporate cruise in the car, I wanted to keep the wiring as is, at least for now. So I had to open up the wiring harness relief in the drop until it also cleared the cruise wiring.
Then I determined that the plastic sleeve extension on the shifter collar needed to lose 3 inches so the drop could be mounted closer to the steering wheel. Cutting it was easy. Cutting it straight without cutting through the wiring harness was another matter. I got it close enough that a little filing will make it look factory.
With the drop in the new location, the dimmer switch linkage interfered with the drop. Of course! After a little tweaking of the rod and filing of the drop, the drop mounted to the column and the dimmer switch functions fine.
Alas, I ran out of day before I ran out of steering column install activities. The next time I get to work on it should see the column installed. If it doesn't go in next time, I may be looking at an ididit or Flaming River unit.
I got an indication the seat may not be in exactly the right location. The good news is that it is probably close enough to proceed. Once I get the column installed, I will review the feel. This is where I have problems with the interior. I am used to solids which are easy to measure. Seats are soft, irregular, and hard to measure.
I held a straight edge over the center row of buttons on the seat bottom. Dropping a plumb bob from the straight edge in two locations yielded the green line which, in the photo, is lower on the left than on the right. The other green line is parallel to the center line.
Then I sat in the seat while holding a steering wheel with the plumb bob through the center hole. Surprise, surprise. The bob consistently hit close to the period after the H. I settled on putting the red line just to the side of the H, parallel to the center line of the car.
Carrying the new column center line up the toe board showed that the lower column mount hole needed to move outboard 2-1/4".
I also removed the pockets where the brake pedal and the clutch pedal came through the floor. Look at all the crud these pockets held, now accumulated on the floor.
After cutting out the lower mount hole and moving it outboard, a filler was cut to fill the gaping hole. Everything is tacked for now in case I have to move them later.