The insides of the channels were blasted to remove the paint so the flange could be moved down and welded. The scoring was cut through and the end of the flange was cut. Reliefs were cut in the side of the flange to clear the "dimples" in the side of the support and the captive nuts. The flange was scored at the bottom of the cross brace mount to facilitate bending. The flange was then positioned so the radiator would approximate the same angle as the stocker. Tack welds were put in as the flange was straightened using a square as a straight edge.
Seller's remorse in my heart, anyway. My brain knows that I have too many projects and one had to go. The new owner picked it up Friday. Hopefully he can fix the bunch of minor little problems and get it back on the road in time to enjoy the drop top before it gets too hot.
A filler piece approximately 13/16" wide and 13-1/8" long was cut, fitted, and tacked into place.
After fitting a triangular shaped piece to the far end and a lot of fitting, welding, and grinding, the modification to the one side was complete. The same process was repeated on the other side.
A side by side comparison of a stock support (on the right) and the modified support (on the left) shows the reinforced bottom corners and the wider section which extends up about 2/3 the height of the support.
About one more day of modifications and the support should be ready for a test fit. I am really hoping the fire wall will not require modification to make all this fit. I am getting close.
The front side cut will extend only to the first tape. When the flange is recessed, it will not drop into the the area between the cut tape and the cross tape enough for the angle to cause problems. The extra distance will aid in bolting the inner fenders and the horn baffles.
The second photo was taken after the scoring and cutting were completed.
Finally, the side was bent out to be perpendicular to the mounting flange.
The top of the radiator must be mounted about 9/16" off the rear mounting flange. The bottom needs the flange moved into the support (toward the front of the car) about 1". Using a straight edge, I estimated the crossing point should be where the blue tape is. This is approximately at the bottom of the cross brace mount.
In order to get the flange to drop into the support, the side will need to be moved to perpendicular to the flange. The square shows how much movement is needed.
Tape was used to layout the cuts. The last shot shows the rear flange. Eventually, the cut on this line will go through. For now, it will be scored to facilitate bending the side. The far right vertical (in this photo) tape indicates where the flange will cross from being recessed in the support to being moved out from the support. The other vertical tape shows where the cut will be for the side modification.