I pulled the front sheet metal off the 41 and dropped the engine and tranny in. After bolting the radiator to the core support, I tried it to see if it would fit. Unfortunately, it lacks about two inches of clearing. I don't want to modify the driver's side of the firewall. Unfortunately, that is what it would take to use the radiator / fan combo shown here.
Put the radiator in without the fan. After some measuring, it looks like a 118 Flex-a-lit will do the trick. I better get one on order.
I am the envy of my friends. My wife loves to mow the lawn. We used to fight over who got to do the mowing. I finally gave in and let her do the mowing. (Don, eat your heart out!)
So, tonight I changed the oil in it and aired up the tires so she can get after the grass.
I also finished the other side of the core support. Same technique as the other side. It went a bit quicker since I had a better idea of how to complete it.
I will finish the welds and tie up other loose ends once I am sure this will work.
I did a final fit of the radiator to make sure it will fit. The radiator is now 1-3/4" closer to the front of the car at the bottom than it was going to be with the original plan which would have spaced it 3/4" away from the support.
I will have to work on the front end of the Sable this weekend. Hopefully, I can still assemble the front suspension of the 41, drop in the engine, and then check to see if this core support modification will allow the engine to clear the fans. I have my fingers crossed.
Moving to the top, the flange was cut just above the mounting nut. The side was cut from that cut down to the bottom of the cross brace mount. The flange was then pulled up to meet the straight edge. A filler piece was cut and tacked in.
At this point, I ran out of daylight. I probably won't completely weld the flange at this time. Instead, I will do the other side and then test fit the assembly in the car. There is no point doing more welding just in case this doesn't work. I am still shooting for the test fit this weekend.
The insides of the channels were blasted to remove the paint so the flange could be moved down and welded. The scoring was cut through and the end of the flange was cut. Reliefs were cut in the side of the flange to clear the "dimples" in the side of the support and the captive nuts. The flange was scored at the bottom of the cross brace mount to facilitate bending. The flange was then positioned so the radiator would approximate the same angle as the stocker. Tack welds were put in as the flange was straightened using a square as a straight edge.