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04-16-2004 11:24 PM Chrysler ignition 3 (continued)
I used an old distributor cap (photo 1) with big windows cut in to align the magnetic pick up on the breaker plate so an inductor lobe was opposite the magnetic pickup when the distributor rotor is opposite a spark plug terminal. Twist the inductor rotor on the distributor shaft to achieve this alignment. The magnetic pickup can be bolted to the breaker plate in the most convenient position since the rotor is moved for timing.

Photo 2 shows everything in place ready to fire the engine. The old Chevy distributor shaft breaker cam must be turned on a lathe for a firm press fit of the inductor rotor.

Now all that is needed is a Chrysler electronic ignition module and wiring harness.


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  [Entry #201]

04-16-2004 11:37 PM Frame mounted gas tank on early Chevy PU
My '53 Chevy came with a cab mounted gas tank behind the seat. To leave it there would defeat the purpose of my king cab conversion so I wanted to move it under the body. The usual place for a moved tank is under the rear of the bed between the frame rails. I wanted to put my spare tire there because I didn't have room for it in the fender on my shortened bed. I found that a 22 gallon mid 70s Chevy 1/2 ton pickup tank would fit perfectly inside the passenger side frame rail. Even though I am running a big 200R4 OD tranny, I still had room for the tank. Photo 1 is the tank, photos 2 and 3 are closeups of the mounting brackets I made to bolt to the frame.


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  [Entry #200]

04-16-2004 11:41 PM Gas tank 2 (continued)
Photo 1 shows the clearance gained from the drop in the top of the tank that fits perfectly around the X-member and emergency brake rod on the pickup.

Photo 2 show how I routed the gas filler pipe from the back of the tank, through the bed skirt under the passenger fender leading to the gas filler door I mounted in the front of that fender.


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  [Entry #199]

04-16-2004 11:46 PM Gas tank 3 (continued)
These two photos are of the gas tank filler door I got out of the junk yard and grafted on from some foreign car. The door was originally flat so I had to hammer it to the shape of the fender.

The final step was to cut the gas tank sender off the '53 tank and braze it in place on the sending unit bracket in the new tank so I can use my '53 gas gauge.



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  [Entry #198]

04-25-2004 09:21 PM Power windows for old window risers
One feature we all want in our street rods is power windows. The usual approach is to buy an expensive kit that requires mounting a wobbly mechanism inside a door in three dimensions. It usually takes several cut and tries before the blasted things work and even then they often cause the window glass to tilt and bind. The best solution would be to mount an electric motor on the stock mechanisms. That would guarantee smooth operation and easy installation.

We are in luck! It turns out that many if not most old window crank gears have the same gear pitch as common Ford window riser motors. I did this conversion on my '53 Chevy pickup project and it works perfectly. These motors are available by the thousands at your local Pick-A-Part.

Photo 1 show the '53 riser mechanism with the window crank gear removed, ready to cut an access hole for the Ford motor.

Photo 2 show the old bearing cut out and a flat plate welded in.

Photo 3 shows holes drilled for the 3 Ford mounting screws, for the motor shaft and the motor mounted on.



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  [Entry #197]

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