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02-07-2005 08:51 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to56
Once I had the top and bottom buck pieces and the measurement of how tall the buck should be I drilled 3/8" holes (photos 1 & 2) in the center of each piece on the drill press to make sure they would be straight. The bottom pieces were made form 3/4" thick plywood scraps and the magnet shape rounds from 1/4" plywood. Then using the speaker height measurements taken previously, I cut 3/8" dowels to length and glued the bucks together shown in photo 3. When the glue dried, these were plenty strong enough to 'glass.


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  [Entry #96]

02-07-2005 08:41 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to55
Many of you know I love working in fiberglas and have several entries in hti journal about it. However I learned a neat new trick from Kriskustoms (see http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52028&highlight=fleece) using fleece cloth to make complicated shaped 'glas parts easily. I decided to give it a try on the speaker enclosures for my '53 Chevy. I needed two 6" diameter round ones in the door panels and two 6" x 10" complicated shaped ones for the rear speakers.

To start I needed some fleece and a chance comment to my daughter resulted in her giving me a big fleece Barbie blanket that was headed to Good Will (photo 1)! Plenty of material for this project and several more later.

The first step was to design the bucks over which the 'glas would be formed. Contrary to the dash that Kriskustoms made, my buck had to be removable to allow room for the speakers. I started by determining how high the enclosure had to be to clear the speaker magnet (photo 2). Then I cut out the blanks on the band saw. One blank was about 1/2" bigger in diameter that the magnet (photo 3) and the other blank was slightly larger than the speaker front rim.


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  [Entry #95]

01-23-2005 10:20 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to54
Here are a few shots of how to replace the window riser channel on a typical window. First, take out all the old glass and rubber from the channel. Clean it thoroughly and POR15 any rust you find there.

Photo 1 shows the raw rubber tape being installed in the channel. This is non-vulcanized rubber and sticks to the glass and the metal but still allows the parts to be separated if necessary. Don't add anything to glue or lube this joint. The rubber does it all. Also, there are a couple of thicknesses of rubber tape. Be sure to use the proper one. Your glass shop will do this job for free but I had to dig s couple of glass channels out of old doors so I did it myself. Ask them for some of the tape and they will give you enough of both thicknesses for free.

Photo 2 shows the channel being tapped onto the glass. The glass is supported on a piece of carpet and a rubber mallet is used. You don't heed to wallop this, it will go together with firm taps of the hammer.

Photo 3 shows the rubber being trimmed. That's it! Oh, and be sure to center the channel on the window glass so it doesn't hit the felt window channels in the door.


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  [Entry #94]

01-18-2005 07:48 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to53
First, here are the rear and quarter fixed windows installed. As you can see I used the decorative chrome channel locking strips.

Next is a shot of the AD pickup window trim rings installed, They came from the factory as painted or polished stainless. The stainless ones are rare so I had my painted ones chromed. Of course it took two door frames cut and welded back together to get the rectangular ones for my king cab windows.

Finally is a shot of a wind-wing installed with fresh rubber seals and new glass. I toyed with the idea of eliminating the wind-wings but they add a little old time feel which is the theme of the truck so they stayed.


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  [Entry #93]

01-18-2005 07:40 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to52
The first shot shows how I pop-riveted the door welting to the door frame. It is also glued with more 3m-90.

I needed something on the rear panel of the cab between the headliner and the rear seat back. I glued on a sheet of 1/8" closed cell foam before installing the windows. The foam was trimmed back 1/2" from the window openings so it wouldn't interfere with the window rubber. Photo 2 shows a piece of tweed upholstery glued to the foam. I am pretty proud of doing this all in one piece except for the risers between the rear side window and the quarter window. Just too much compound curve here to make it work. Photo 3 shows a separate piece I glued in to fill this gap.

To install the windows I had to peel back the upholstery from the sheet metal so the window rubber would go in. It is a really tight fit and the upholstery made the sheet metal rim too thick to fit the channel in the rubber. Once the windows were installed, I was able to stuff the upholstery under the lip of the rubber on the rear window but not the quarter windows. That rubber was too tight. I carefully cut the upholstery to the rubber's edge and glued it to the sheet metal. Looks fine and should last OK.


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  [Entry #92]

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