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10-11-2004 07:50 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to32
Since I am installing power windows in all 4 corners on my king cab pickup and installing door radio speakers, I need a lot of wires feeding into the doors. I first tried to use Juliano's hollow door checks (photo 1) but they didn't work with the door geometry and bound up. Plus I would have had to use two or three on the driver's door to fit all the wires.

Photos 3 and 4 show what I ended up using. I got these electrical connectors from RB's Obsolete parts and they fit the bill perfectly. The 9-connector unit serves the 7 window power wires and two speaker wires while a smaller 5-connector unit is on the passenger door for the three window and two speaker wires.

the bare metal areas are where I had to weld up holes I made trying to make the Julian's do-hickies work.


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  [Entry #66]

10-11-2004 07:41 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to31
It's been a while since my last entry but I have good excuses. Been paint our house getting ready to sell it and have been wiring the truck with an EZ kit - not too exciting.

Here are my finished wheels. Going for the stock look so I think they fit right in. Close-up is of the Port-A-Wall inserts I used.


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  [Entry #65]

08-11-2004 09:25 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to30
Here is how I mounted the open drive-line to replace the closed one that came on the truck. This is one of the Chevy Salisbury 6-lug truck rears. It came on the truck so I didn't pay any attention to what it is off of. Has 3.54 gears and is in good shape so that is all I cared about!

You can see from the three photos how I made the spring pad blocks out of 1-3/4" x 4" rectangular tubing, 5" long. A semi-circle notch was cut in half the diameter of the axle tube so it nestled in snuggly. After everythigh was bolted in place, aligned squared, pinion angle set, etc., a welding bead all-round secured it forever. Should take it to a machine shop and have the tubes straightened after doing this much cutting and welding. Just good, cheap insurance against premature bearing failure. I needed the tallness to replace the big mechanism Chevy used in mounting the closed drive-line. I could have used a shorter block by de-arching the springs but this was easier. I am going for stock height but if you want it lowered, de-arch the springs for sure.

I had the U-bolts custom made at my local spring shop but I have seen kits @ Pep Boys. The bottom plate was home made from 1/2" steel and the shock mounting bracket came with the truck. I suspect it is stock Chevy but would be easy to duplicate from flat stock or a piece of 3/8" 4"x4" angle iron.

PS. I always have my leaf springs powder coated. As good as teflon liners or grease for slick, smooth ride and much cleaner than both.


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  [Entry #64]

08-06-2004 01:16 AM '53 AD extended cab how-to29
Here is the circuit diagram for the headlight turn signal flasher described in journal entry '53 AD extended cab how-to28.


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  [Entry #63]

08-06-2004 01:12 AM '53 AD extended cab how-to28
Flashing headlight turn signals

I titled this as a pickup project but it is has universal application. I install them on every car I make. It is a circuit that flashes the lo-beam in the headlights so you don't need to install separate turn signals. It is in the vein of blue dots in tail lights - gets lots of comments like, "Did you know that your headlights flash when you turn?!"

To make it you need a piece of aluminum plate about 5 1/2" x 3". I used a 1/4" piece because I had it laying around but go at least 3/16" thick for sturdiness and ability to hold a threaded screw. Electronic components are; 3 Radio Shack or equivalent 50ohm 5w resistors (Photo 1. 10w is OK too if they don't have a 5w. The load is about 2w); two headlight relays (Bosch makes the one in photo 2 which is super compact and has spade connectors, not screws and the mounting bracket. Real popular w/ the hot rod community. Car Quest for sure has them but other parts stores probably do to.); an 8-circuit terminal strip (another Radio Shack item); and misc wire and connectors.

The next entry in this journal has the circuit diagram. Only 3 pictures allowed per entry!

Photo 3 shows the completed circuit board that screws down near your fuse block. The little black wire is grounded to the plate which in my case will be grounded to the steel body of my truck. If your mounting point isn't a ground you must supply a remote ground wire.

I color code my panel to the colors of the wires attaching to it so it is easy to remember where everything goes. You need to isolate the lo-beam wire (tan on GM circuits) going to the headlights to one light and discard the part that used to go to the other light. These carry quite a bit if current so should be 14ga. GM cheaps out with smaller wire but they shouldn't! EZ, Painless, etc., after market harnesses have the larger wire. Then run a second wire (I use yellow) to the other headlight. You need a #14 wire that is spliced into the main power lead to your headlight switch that supplies power whether the headlights are off or on. Remember the low beams must flash in daylight when the lights are normally off. On my circuit board this wire ties into either of the terminals connected by the big red jumper in front of the terminal block. There are normally open and normally closed options on the relay, this wire is hooked to the normally open terminal so when the light switch is off and the turn signals are not engaged, the circuit is open and the lights are off. Turn on the low beams and the relay points close and power flows through this wire to the lights.

Now cut into the old lo-beam (tan) wire near the circuit board and attach the end coming from the dimmer switch (power end) to the far left terminal on my circuit board/diagram. The wires on this are red too but are smaller 16ga since all the low beam light switch does now is power the exciting coil to turn on the headlights and carries 0.25amps max. One side of the coil on both relays are tied to this terminal.

Attach the other end of that old circuit wire that goes to one headlight to the 'out' terminal (tan on my board). Attach the other headlight lead (yellow on my board) to the appropriate connector on the board.

That completes the circuit that will power the lights through the two relays but now you need to hook up the turn signal excitation wires to get the relays to "flash". On GM the turn signal lead wires are 16 or 18 gauge (low current for the small bulbs) light blue for left turn, medium blue for right turn. Sever both near the circuit board and attach the end that comes from the turn signal mechanism to its respective terminal on the board. These no longer power the turns signal lights but power the relay coil to close the points that conduct the current to the headlights. They go to their respective relays and when either is powered by the flasher, it closes the contacts and momentarily tuns on that headlight. Strip out the rest of that wire out to the old turn signal light (or discard it from an after-market harness), 'cause you no longer need lights out there!

Finally, the resistors are tied into the three sides of the relay exciting coil circuit as shown in the diagram in the next Journal entry with the other leads going to the ground.

If you did everything right (I rarely do - usually screw something up and flash left headlight for a right turn - but it is easy to correct!), your low beams should flash "on and off" during the day and "off and on" during the night. Hard to see when your hi-beams are on but then you shouldn't have your hi-beams on when people are looking! Only difference you may notice is that the flasher may be a little slower since their speed is dependent on the current flowing through them and this circuit places a smaller load on the flasher. No biggie.



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  [Entry #62]

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