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05-07-2004 11:45 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to11
There is one flaw in the fit, no matter whether you use my door skin method or two cabs for the extension. Photo 1 shows an unavoidable dip in the joint between the two panels on the middle of the roof. I didn't feel confident enough in my metal working skill to work the dip out so decided to fill it with a patch panel. To start, I dragged the straight edge over the roof, carefully marking the edge of the dip all-round. Then as shown in photo 2 I made a paper template of the required panel. Note the shrinking I did on one of the door skins. Turns out that it was pretty wrinkly from old road war injuries. Got it pretty flat finally.

Photo 3 show the patch welded in, ready for bondo. Max thickness of bondo is no greater than 1/16" anywhere on the truck. Am pretty proud of that!

I used my slitting saw to cut out the extra layer of roof panel under the patch at the rear. I left the double thickness in the front panel due to the support tube arc installed previously.


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  [Entry #31]

05-07-2004 11:36 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to10
Photo 1 is one of the door skins being fitted and photo 2 shows one tacked in place. Photo 3 shows both pieces fitted and tacked. Actually quite uneventful after all the cutting and welding was done. Great fit.


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  [Entry #30]

05-07-2004 11:32 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to 9
Photo 1 shows all of the patches needed on the filler panel.

I mentioned needing a second set of donor doors and here is the first reason in photo 2. Cut the square back off the donor and weld them on place as shown in photo 1. That finishes the side filler and all that is left to do is the top.

Figure 3 shows the other reason for the second set of donor doors. Cut the skins off them and use them for the top!


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  [Entry #29]

05-07-2004 11:24 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to 8
Photo 1 shows the patches welded in.

Photo 2 shows a patch needed in the rear top corner of the filler.

Photo 3 shows that the front of the belt line needs no filler if your paper pattern was accurate!

Door latch hole eventually gets filled with sheet metal too.


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  [Entry #28]

05-07-2004 11:21 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to 7
Although the rear edge of the door fits w/o much trimming, I didn't want to have multiple thickness of steel there to interfere with the inevitable body work to finish the seam. Thus photos 1 & 2 show how I moved the inner panel an inch or so away from the edge leaving a single thickness of sheet steel to weld to the body rear. By grinding the wrap-around lip off the door skin and taking out a little step flange on the inner door frame edge, that edge could be slid back but still be close by to keep the shape very stable. Weld it in place once moved.

Photo 3 shows the rear of the door tacked in place. There are only two little filler patches needed at the belt line.


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  [Entry #27]

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