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11-01-2010 09:30 PM '59 Elky Headliner Bows 2
First picture shows the tube brazed in the slot. I left the tube longer than the slot so I didn't get brazing in it. If that happens, the rod won't slip in. The extra length is easily cut off later. Braze the tube in the slot before finishing the other end of the clip.

The second picture shows the clips all made, trimmed to match the factory one with screw slot and slight bend. One is installed on a rod compared to the factory clip on another rod.

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  [Entry #186]

11-01-2010 09:25 PM '59 Elky Headliner Bows 1
My '59 el Camino takes 4 headliner bows and 3 of the bows have specialty metal clips at each end that screw to the roof. My car had the one bow that doesn't screw to the roof and one of them that does. finding a good set is tough. Finding a set of end clips is even tougher. I have seen them on ebaY but prices are usually stiff. Last couple I saw asking price was $35. I don't want to pay $70 for 4 quarter sized clips, thank you.

So as usual I decided to make my own. Here is a picture of a clip and the stuff I used to make my own version. Basically I used a piece of 1" wide x 3/32" thick steel bar and 3/16" brake line I had in my junk pile. The bar looks like something I bought at Home Depot.

The second picture shows the bar with a slot sketched in to accept the tube.

The last picture shows the slot cut (snug so the tube needs to be wedged in and stay by itself. Makes brazing much easier).

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  [Entry #185]

05-30-2010 11:46 PM Paint booth accessory 2
Here are a coupel shots of the system in use.

notice all the junk in my paint booth. I have filled up all the cabinets I built in the rest of my 1700sqft shop and need to build a storage shed for more stuff!

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  [Entry #184]

05-30-2010 11:39 PM Paint booth accessory 1
Just about every car project needs a lot of little and not so little pieces painted separately (photo 1 is a box of 40 pieces I painted all at one time!). Even if there aren't a lot of pieces to paint, there are awkward shaped pieces that need to be painted on both sides so need to be suspended for total access.

Here is how I accommodated that requirement in my paint booth.

Using long eye-bolts screwed into ceiling joists, I slipped 3/4", galvanized rigid electrical conduit through the loops. The 10' sections are jointed with conduit couplings. All this stuff is available at any hardware store. Photo 2 shows two rails spaced about 4.5' - 5' apart. Don't remember the dimension exactly.

Next, using gass welding rod I bent up a bunch of wire hangers as shown in photo 3. Real easy to make by bending the ends of the rod with pliers, they can be made any length. I have made about 40 so far and used every one!

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  [Entry #183]

05-30-2010 10:57 PM 1959 Chevy wiper motor testing
One of the problems in building a '59 thru early '60 Chevy is the wiper motor. Your project car usually comes with a motor and if that doesn't work you buy one off ebaY. You can always buy a $300 reconditioned motor that you know will work but what's the fun of that? Regardless of the source, the first thing you need to do is see if it works.

Here are directions on testing one of these (2-speed) motors out of the car. It an easily be done using your 12V battery charger. These motors are controlled using a circuit based on manipulating the grounding of a couple of terminals. Here is how to do it;

First make a couple of short lead wires by stripping both ends. Put one end of each wire through the two outside terminals of the plug on the motor. These are terminals 1& 3 shown in the diagram. Make a third such lead wire that is connected to the middle terminal 2.

Now hook your battery charger to the motor as follows; hook the positive clip on the charger to the lead on the center terminal. This is all time hot and is never disconnected. Next hook the long thin brass sheet metal ground lead that comes out of the motor body to the negative clamp on your battery charger. This is all-time ground and is never disconnected.

You are now ready to test the motor.

To simulate low speed, touch both outside leads from terminals 1 & 3 to the ground clamp on your charger. Motor should start and run.

To simulate high speed, disconnect the lead on outside terminal #3 and let it hang free. The motor should speed up noticeably.

Finally to park the motor, hook both leads from outside terminals to each outer but not to ground and the motor should run until the crank is to one side and stop. It should stop there every time.

If these things don't happen, you will need to open the unit and likely just clean up a couple contacts, make sure the brushes touch the commutator. These are really well made units and not a lot goes wrong. A lot of them don't work but it is usually a simple maintenance cause that is easily fixed.

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  [Entry #182]

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