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10-06-2015 10:38 AM Update on my Build-Lights
Lastly, here is a picture of my finished Tail lights-I came up with this design (it is essentially a '37 Ford Tailight outline split in two and lengthened), and had Lambert Enterprises CNC them for me-I flush mounted them, and put sealed boxes behind (to seal them from moisture)-

They will be ghost painted (meaning that they will almost vanish into the Paint), and I'm pleased with how they came out-the Trunk closes without any outside handle, and I used Door poppers to open it (I put a cable pull handle behind the Driver's seat, and put a redundant Handle/Cable under the Car)-

While I'm here I'll show you the Trunk Panels-the floor of the Trunk will be carpeted, and I'm sure there will be changes on the finished design of the the Trunk-

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  [Entry #46]

10-06-2015 10:29 AM Rear Fuse Panel
I had to find somewhere to put my Battery (the original was under the Floor, where now I have my Master Cylinder/Booster), so at first I was just going to build a Box out of 18 Gauge CRS and mount it that way), but I came across this Box (it was a Navy Box-said Sonar Equipment on it), and had a full width piano hinge, was made of at least 16 Gauge with rolled edges, etc.-very nicely made, and it fit perfectly between my Wheel Tubs, so I used it-this car is a Business Coupe, so since I put a Trunk in it (they didn't have Trunks in '35-36 Ford Business Coupes) there is a lot of room behind the front Seat for this to fit-I put some nitrogen shocks on it (to open it, works great), so I am pleased-

I put a Moroso Battery Box in there, plus I made two Fuse Panels-one (against the side) has 3 200 Amp Rockford Fosgate Circuit Breakers (two are wired for the Starter/front accessories (400 Amps), and one is for the rear Fuse Panel-I've used the highest quality tinned, high wire count Wiring throughout the Car I could find, and oversized most every circuit (except Sensing Wires)-

For the rear Panel, I have my Weldon Fuel Pump Controller, Fuel Pump Wiring, a Leash Electronics Relay Board (they are the best!), the main Wiring from my Holley Dominator ECU (of course, it is fused!), and a small Fuse Panel (for my Trunk lights), with room to grow as needed-

I also put an E-Stopp Electric Parking Brake system in here (it's mounted inside the front panel)-I like that I can set the Parking Brake, cut the power (throw the Circuit Breakers) and make the Car pretty much undriveable-even if you somehow figured it out and cut the Brake Cables, it still will not start-

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  [Entry #45]

10-06-2015 10:11 AM Interior update
Here are a few pictures of my ongoing, updated Interior-I used the upper part of my original '35 Dash (I think the '35-36 Dashes are ugly from the Factory), then I grafted a '32 Roadster Dash on the bottom. I needed a place for the Dash controls (and I didn't want to clutter the Dash), so I made the bottom Dash out of 18 Gauge CRS-it's kinda hard to see, but the lower Dash curves from the angled upper to the floor-

I used an Auto Meter Shift light Tach, that is a So-Cal Speedshop Dash Insert (with Classic Instrument Gauges), a Ron Francis Access 24/7 Wiring Harness (with Leash Electronics Relays), and a TCI Outlaw Paddle Shifter (it has 3 modes)-I had the cover and handles of the Shifter hydrodipped in carbon fiber, and used a Flaming River Stainless Steering Column, and Clayton Machine Pedals and A/C vents-

The Shifter pedestal came about because I am running a Glide Engineering (split-back with armrest) Bench Seat, and I wanted the Shifter up where I could use it, (I like what they are doing in Drag Cars), so I put it 90 degrees to my Arm-the holes in the console and shifter tower are flared, with domed Stainless screens-I have wired the Shifter with a Line Lock (for burnouts! )-also, at the Base of the Shift Tower I have installed two switches and one potentiometer-one switch controls the Shifter Mode (Auto, Manual, Buttons-these are controlled through the Holley Dominator EFI input/outputs) the other switch controls Street or Race mode for the Fuel Pump Controller (Fuel flow), and the Potentiometer adjusts the Fuel Pump Flow on-the-fly in Street mode-

My Holley Dominator ECU is mounted under the Drivers' side of the dash (to be as far away from RFI as possible), with an extension cord (coupler) to the Passenger side (to hook my Computer into)-

The Electric Power Windows are Nu-Relic (they build quality stuff), and I've used a Watson's Streetworks Genesis Power Door Lock Remote System (with redundant Handle/Cables under the Car, and a switch that will be hidden under the Running Boards)-there are no outside Door Locks on this Car (just Door Handles)-

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  [Entry #44]

10-06-2015 09:46 AM Update on my Build
Here is a few pictures of where I am-

In the first picture, I've mounted my Holley EFI waste-fire Coils on the Firewall, and a guy out of Florida whittled out my Coil Mount (I had MSD Wires on it in this picture, (but have since changed to Moroso Ultra 40's) , and my Weldon Fuel Regulator is mounted next to it-

I am going to try these Mooneyes Valve Covers (with Breathers) and see if they will do the job-I had Mooneyes machine the covers for the breathers, and, I have another set without breathers if I have to change (I painted the fins a contrasting Black-same Paint as the Car)-if the Breathers aren't enough, I will install two catch cans (with filters) on the Firewall-I plumbed all of the braided lines with Russell Teflon Hose and Nickle plated Fittings (PTFE), as Hilborn's do not come with any type of Water Manifold (so you have to figure it out for yourself)-

Also, in these pictures I have a PowerMaster 165 Amp Alternator-the problem with these (they are CS130) is the idle Amps, and I have since upgraded to a 240 Amp Mechman S Series Alternator (165 Amps at Idle!)-I used Squeeg's Plug Wire Separators-

While I was mostly happy with the polishing, I sent out my Injector Tubes and Valve Covers to J and S Polishing in Colorado Springs (he does great work!), and they came out great-I then coated them with Shine Seal-(this stuff works)-

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  [Entry #43]

08-03-2015 10:39 AM New Rear Center Section/Axle Package
With the upgrade to my Engine (454 to 496 to 540), I have to upgrade the Axle too-I had a 9 inch Ford, with a 31 Spline, 4 pin Trac-loc in the Car (which is good to about 550 hp), but it would not live with a set of Slicks (I do plan to take it to the Track), so I decided to upgrade to something I can't break (hopefully!)-I will get a Carbon Fiber Driveshaft to go with it, but this is a Strange Engineering Pro HD thru-bolt, polished Aluminum Center Section, with the Strange S trac posi, 35 Spline Axles, 1350 U-Joints, 3.50 ratio, and I had Strange drill my Axles for both 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch screw-in Studs-it is a very strong unit-I hope I'm done with the rear end now-

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  [Entry #42]

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