The ribs on the tilt front shell serve a few different purposes. Not only do they stiffen up the glass shell, they also serve as the mounting point for the hinges and the linear actuators. They also are the attachment point for the grille.
The Alumicraft grille came with mounting tabs on each corner of the frame. The distance between the tabs is what originally set the rib spacing. Unfortunately, the location of the tab mounting holes ended up being right where the rib cutouts were. So I had to cut them off, fabricate up new tabs and weld them back on. I also slotted the holes for a little adjustment and the ribs were drilled and tapped for mounting screws.
Second photo shows the grille bolted in place and the actuator rod pivot plates installed.
Last photo shows the grille and cutout.
The tilt shell from Outlaw does not come with the grill opening recess formed into it like the regular fiberglass front end piece does, and its up to the builder to locate the opening and cut it out. I did have a tracing of the original grille opening size and after a little Cad drafting to clean up the shape, I printed out a full sized copy and taped it to the shell. Making sure that it was centered both horizontally and vertically, the shape was transferred to the shell and the rough shape was cut out.
I am not using the stock grille, but instead have a horizontal bar style grille made by Alumicraft which mounts to the shell from the inside. Therefore I will have to finish off the edge of the shell, probably by forming a small radiused lip around the grille opening.
Last photo shows how low the grill opening is in relationship to the engine.
The first photo shows the finished tilt shell and rib assembly. I installed a total of thirty tabs on the tilt shell to hold ten separate ribs, which in turn were bolted to each other to stiffen everything up. My original intent was to have the transverse rib that runs parallel to the cowl to be one piece. However, I needed to change it to two separate pieces in order to clear the blower scoop when the tilt opens and closes.
The second and third photos, which are a little tough to see because of the reflection off of the body, show the piece that I needed to cut off the rear portion of the fender in order to clear the door as the tilt opens/closes. I made a cardboard template for one side and marked the cut line, and then reversed it to mark the cut line for the other fender. The piece that was cut off will be bonded to the top of the saddle. This moves the tilt/body gap out away from the door and ensures that the tilt shell does not scratch the door when it operates. The linear actuator switch will be wired in series with a pair of door contacts to ensure the tilt can't operate without the door being closed.
After the third layer of mat, I rolled the tilt shell out in the sunlight for a while and let it bake to make sure everything was fully cured. The other photos are just some more shots of the completed work.