There was no easy way to route the oil lines forward to where they meet up with the thermostat. After many trial-and-error mock-ups, I decided to sleeve the frame cross member and route the hoses through the frame. Holes were drilled through the frame for 7/8” o.d. x .065” wall steel tubing. The tubing was then welded in place and ground flush with frame. The third photo shows the finished sleeves for the oil lines on the left, and also for the fuel lines on the right.
Once the cooler location was finalized, the permanent mounting brackets were made from quarter-inch flat stock and tacked to the frame. The mounting holes were drilled and tapped in the brackets. Aluminum spacers are used between the cooler and frame brackets to space the cooler away from the body and allow airflow to the fins. The supply and return lines to/from the cooler follow the curve of the frame directly under the body/floor. Another cross-bracket will be added to the frame just in front of the cross member to support the hoses. Aluminum hose separators are used to keep the hoses neatly arranged.
Even though I have the largest radiator and fan I could fit, I was still concerned about the Hemi overheating, so I decided to add an oil cooler. The cooler will be remote mounted, so it requires its own fan, and in order to send only hot oil to the cooler, an oil thermostat was also needed. The fan is from Derale, and the thermostat is from Mocal. When the engine oil is cold, the thermostat will route the oil directly back to the engine bypassing the cooler. Once the temperature reaches 180 degrees, the thermostat opens and directs flow through the cooler and then back to the engine.
The only place with enough space to mount the cooler was behind the rear end on the frame. The cooler location was mocked-up in the frame with some wood blocks and the oil supply and return lines were located. There needs to be some space between the cooler fins and the bottom of the body above for air to be drawn in from the top and through the fins. The cooler also needed to be offset to make room for the oil line fittings. The blue fitting contains the thermostatic switch to turn the cooler fan on and off, so the fan will only be on when the oil thermostat is open and sending hot oil to the cooler.
The weight of the tank will not be taken by the tabs alone. I didn’t want the tabs to flex at all with the weight of the fuel, so supports were made for each corner of the tank to take the weight. Triangular wooden pads were temporarily taped to the bottom of the tank and thick epoxy was applied to the trunk floor where the pads were going to sit. The tank was put into place using shims for the correct spacing off of the floor, and the epoxy was allowed to set. This way, the tank was bedded correctly on the wooden pads. After the epoxy set, the tank was removed leaving the wood pads epoxied to the floor. Rubber sheet was added to each pad to complete the tank supports. The fuel tank is now bolted to the frame and rests on the pads for support.
The rear mounts will have bolts through the floor and into tabs welded to the frame. The tank was centered side-to-side and leveled with shims before holes through floor were drilled. Quarter inch tabs were drilled and tapped for the through bolts and welded to the frame. Tabs are just tacked for now and will be finish welded later. The rubber grommets insulate the tank from the frame, so a separate ground strap will be used.