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View steve392's profile Entries: 225
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01-13-2010 03:43 PM Willys - Roll Control & Brake Plumbing
The first photo is another view of the front brake line. Still to be installed are the clamps that will secure the line to the frame.
The second photo shows the finished brake line layout at the firewall and roll control. I ended up using a straight bulkhead fitting for the rear brake line instead of the 90 degree fitting shown in an earlier photo, and running the line parallel to the front brake line. Also seen is the hydraulic brake light switch. I will also have a mechanical switch on the brake pedal. The two switches will be wired in parallel so that the brake lights will still stay on if I engage the roll control and let my foot off of the brake. The last port on the roll control is unused and plugged off.
The third photo shows the finished lines with hold down clamps installed.


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  [Entry #115]

01-13-2010 03:30 PM Willys - Roll Control & Brake Plumbing
The firewall has three bulkhead fittings: The top fitting is for the front brakes, the middle fitting for the rear brakes, both of which are -3AN, and the bottom fitting goes to the clutch hydraulic release bearing, which is -4AN.
The first photo shows the front brake line coming from the master cylinder to the inlet port on the roll control. All stainless steel tubing, nuts, and sleeves were used. The roll control comes with three outlet ports. Unused ports are plugged off.
The second photo shows the trial fit of the outlet tubing to the front brakes. I mocked up most of the bends and did trial fitting with inexpensive steel tubing, and once I was sure of the routing, I duplicated it in stainless.
The third photo shows the almost completed front brake line from the roll control to the front brake tee. I need to dip down low on the frame at one point to avoid the steering universal and then come back up to get over the steering shaft support and motor mount.


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  [Entry #114]

01-13-2010 03:16 PM Willys - Roll Control & Brake Plumbing
I'm installing a Hurst Roll Control on the Willys. I probably won't use it much, but it may come in handy once in a while. I picked a place on the firewall recess not too far from the master cylinder, which is mounted behind the dashboard.
The location is a little tight, but I'll be able to get into and out of the unit with 90 degree AN fittings.
I already have the rear brake plumbing done up to and including the proportioning valve, and the front brake lines are done up to a tee on the frame rail near the crossmember. All that's left to do is route the line from the master cylinder to the roll control inlet and from the roll control outlet to the front brake line tee.
The rear brake line goes directly from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.


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  [Entry #113]

11-20-2009 07:55 AM Willys Interior - Tilt-Front Latches
For the rear latch support point, I welded an angle clip onto the side of the firewall frame as shown in the first photo. The latch will rest on the clip. I drilled and tapped a hole in the latch body to accept a screw through the clip.
Second photo shows finished installation. The latch is through-bolted in the front and secured by the clip in the rear for a solid installation. The manual release knob will be accessible in case of electrical failure. The same latch assembly was also installed on the other side of vehicle.
The last photo shows the latch pin protruding out from the firewall horn. It will mate up to a plate mounted to the tilt front end and keep everything secure.


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  [Entry #112]

11-20-2009 07:44 AM Willys Interior - Tilt-Front Latches
The Willys is going to have a one-piece tilt front end. It will be opened/closed by two linear actuators. Although the actuators will keep the tilt front closed, I still wanted a secondary latching system to keep everything secure.
I decided on using a couple of motor operated suicide door latches as shown in the first photo. The units are fairly large and it took a while to find a place to mount them where they would fit and still allow the latch pin to protrude through the firewall.
I decided on putting them in the unused "horn" areas that protrude forward from the firewall. Although the fiberglass is fairly thick in these areas, I wanted to reinforce it for the through bolts that hold the latch to the body. I epoxied a piece of 1/4" plywood to the inside face of each horn and drilled the mounting holes and latch pin hole as shown in the second photo.
The last photo shows the latch fit up in position. The pin protruding down from the bottom of the latch is for a manual release knob.
The latch is only supported by the two mounting screws through the body at the front of the unit, and it needs to be supported at the rear also. The firewall frame that I made earlier will come in handy again as a rear support point.


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  [Entry #111]

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